Binny's Tasting Panel: Australia Coast to Coast

It was a case of information deprivation Down Under when the Tasting Panel convened to go on walk about, coast to coast, from the Hunter Valley in the east to Margaret River on the West Coast. Although seated, our journey requiring not a single step, we still had our work cut out for us, tasting our way through this massive continent’s varied terroirs, blind. 

Imagine juxtaposing a map of Western Europe over a map of Australia; Europe could nestle comfortably within the borders of Australia with plenty of room to spare. Yet Australian wine is often painted with a broad brush. The reality is, climates, soils and the resulting wines are highly variable. Is there burly warm climate shiraz? Of course. But Aussies are increasingly leaning into vibrant, cool climate expressions. Even wines from warm growing regions like Barossa, although intense, are brighter and more nimble these days. 

Let’s explore our top picks of the tasting together. 

Brokenwood Semillon Hunter Valley 2023

An excellent example of Hunter Valley semillon, kept fresh and bright by proximity to the east coast’s Tasman Sea. The nose is expressively floral, showing hints of orange blossom and honeysuckle with the bright lift of limey citrus. Lively on the palate going from brisk to broad and back again as crisp green apple, crunchy pear and zingy citrus peel widen to creamy passion fruit curd. The midpalate gets a bit waxy and then slims back to a long tangy, citrus, saline and subtle herb informed finish. Although this is zippy and delicious now, HV semillon has a long track record of aging beautifully. There are excellent oysters on Australia’s East Coast and this wine is made for them. If you lay it down until nutty, buttery and toasty, try with grilled barramundi.

Kilikanoon Mort's Block Riesling Clare Valley 2023

This really had tasters buzzing at first whiff. This gorgeous Clare Valley riesling is unbelievably perfumed in the nose, like sticking your nose into a bouquet of roses while standing in a seaside citrus orchard- heavenly. The palate is equally compelling for its concentrated, bone-dry flavors of apricot, peach, lemon sorbet, malic green apple and quince. The floral perfume persists in the mouth. So complex, yet everything is so well integrated. The finish is long, minerally and filled with lime leaf and lemon zest. Try with trout almandine or chicken Milanese.

Jim Barry The Lodge Hill Riesling McLaren Vale 2023

Another delicious dry riesling from South Australia made it to our list of favorites. This time from Mclaren Vale, straight south of the Clare Valley, through the city of Adelaide to the cooling waters of the coast. Subtle white flowers, loads of lime zest, flinty mineral and savory notions of salted nuts appear in the nose. This is a linear and brightly acidic wine driven by minerality, but there is a bare hint of balancing residual sugar upfront bolstering notions of slightly green peach and crisp Asian pear before they are subsumed by the energy of lemon and lime zest on the brisk, minerally finish. Great with smoked fish, lemony shrimp or Panang curry.

Leeuwin Prelude Chardonnay Margaret River 2023

From one of the foundational wineries of Australia’s great west coast growing region, Margaret River, this lovely wine made a strong impression on tasters. Leeuwin burst onto the scene 45 years ago wowing the wine world with its Artist Series Chardonnay, a richly tropical, buttery explosion in the mouth. The Prelude is a fraction of the price and dials back a good deal on the flamboyance, delivering an exceptionally well-balanced chardonnay. Fresh acidity, a combo of lemon, orange and grapefruit, finds a foil in the creamy, lightly buttery, medium-weight body. Seamlessly integrated, with understated vanilla and baking spice scented oak folding into ripe red apple, juicy pear, stone fruit and preserved lemon, all showing uncommon depth as they flow into the long, subtly saline finish. This is stunning for the price. Pair with pan-seared salmon filet or sweet shellfish like scallops or yabbys, Australia’s giant and delicious freshwater crayfish.

Torbreck Cuvée Juveniles Blanc Barossa Valley 2023

A Cotes-du-Rhone style blend of roussanne, marsanne, grenache blanc, viognier and clairette from Barossa Valley’s superb Torbreck Vintners. A winery that delivers all the power one expects from the region with a rare sense of focus, flair and finesse. Wines that are a masterclass in deep concentration and extract coupled with a remarkable, lifted sense of elegance. We found that exact juxtaposition in this expressively aromatic beauty. The nose is complexly layered with pretty, floral, fruity and savory nutty notes. Once sipped the impression is striking, in that it is medium-bodied yet soft and round, rolling around in the mouth with an unctuous viscosity. The depth of luscious pear, melon, white peach, lightly salted almond and lily of the valley on that broad mid are impressive. The finish is wonderfully persistent, refreshing the palate with lingering structure and salinity. An excellent choice for veal, roasted poultry with mushrooms or grilled lobster.

Kilikanoon Killerman's Run Shiraz Clare Valley 2020

Although famous for riesling, over a third of the Clare Valley’s farmed acreage is planted to shiraz. It can get quite warm during the day, but cool maritime breezes result in precipitous drops in nighttime temperatures, allowing for ripe but fresh reds that retain good acidic cut. Those chilly nights are evident in the cool, herbal nose of eucalyptus, mint, bay, brined green peppercorns and delicately aromatic violets. The fruit is dark, showing purple plums, black raspberries and lightly bruised blueberries framed by a zippy tang and firm, woody but velvety tannins. Pan seared duck breast or slow smoked pork are the call.

 

Kirkton Estate The Triton Shiraz Hunter Valley 2021

Kirkton was the very first wine estate established in the Hunter Valley two hundred years ago. Founder, John Busby, made the arduous ocean journey from England on a ship named The Triton. Eventually he came to be known as “the father of the Australian wine”. This is a decidedly cool expression of shiraz showing high-toned scents of fine herbs, eucalyptus, violets and vanilla riding atop tart red fruits. It’s fresh, bright and mouthwatering, with tart cherry, crunchy red currant, rose petal, earth and hint of sanguine, raw meat giving it a somewhat old world feel. The finish is long and fresh with zingy acids. This will cut through rich braises and roasted meats like a sharp knife.

Mount Langi Ghiran Talus Shiraz Grampians 2022

From Grampians in the cool southerly region of Victoria comes this deep purple beauty. The nose resonates with sweet black fruits, black pepper, vanilla, violets, cocoa powder and coffee. Rich blackberry preserves and creme de cassis fill the mouth along with bold, ripe tannins and well-judged vanilla and mocha flavored oak. As the fruit fades on the finish, you are left contemplating the interplay of the lingering tannic structure, cocoa, pepper, baking spice, and freshly ground coffee. Built for beef.

d'Arenberg The Dead Arm Shiraz McLaren Vale 2018

Fourth generation winemaker Chester Osbourn is one of Australia’s most recognizable and prolific practitioners of the vinous arts. He oversees a vast stable of wines, but The Dead Arm is among d’Arenberg’s true classics. Made from old, low-yielding vines that struggle to produce small quantities of exceptionally concentrated fruit, this easily won tasters over for its bold, expressive style. Right out of the gate the nose displays power, telegraphing a richly layered wine full of deep, dark fruit, savory black olive, exotic spices, mint, thyme and crushed black pepper. Dense, concentrated and loaded with tannin that underpins blueberry, black currant, blackberry and plum. There is a distinct herbal, earthy and darkly savory side too, but also sweet vanilla, verging on coconut from the oak. Although this is a 2018 it is still on the upswing, promising future rewards. Only richly flavored dishes like slow roasted or smoked, cumin dusted lamb shoulder should be considered at this stage.