Deciphering Champagne

Deciphering  Champagne

Champagne has long been dominated by the large Grande Marque houses, like Veuve Clicquot and Moet & Chandon. These houses have historically negotiated to buy much of the fruit they use from Champagne’s farmers, who own many of Champagne’s prime vineyards, transforming it into magical bubbles. 

In recent years, it has become increasingly common for top growers with holdings in Premier and Grand Cru villages to make their own wine, often in very food friendly wine-like styles, rather than sell all their fruit.  

As a result, expressions of some of Champagne’s greatest vineyards are being produced by the very people who have meticulously tended the vines, and the prices and quality are phenomenal. We have dozens of Champagnes on our shelves from top grower-producers, small negociant houses and quality minded co-ops that are perfect for the holiday table. 

Do yourself a favor, branch out from the usual and discover these hidden gems. 

How Do You Know? 

Champagne houses have distinct producer numbers that usually appear in very small print on the labels. Each number begins with two letters that indicate the type of house. Here are three of the most common: 

NM - Négociant-Manipulant - a house that buys grapes from growers and makes them into Champagne. The big houses and many small ones fall into this category. A house is NM whether they buy all of their grapes or just a tiny percentage, meaning many small growers who augment production with a small amount of purchased fruit are considered NMs. 

RM – Récoltant-Manipulant - these are the grower-producers. RMs own and tend 100% of the vineyards they harvest to make their own Champagne. These are often top Grand and Premier Cru sights. Prices are often excellent because they are growing their own fruit and not purchasing at the prescribed prices.

CM - Coopérative-Manipulant - houses that are comprised of a group of small growers who blend their grapes collectively and make Champagne under one or more brands. CMs can be very large, producing inexpensive, often good, Champagne but small quality minded collectives also fall under CM.