"Dark onion-skin color with a lively mousse. Subtly earthy on the nose, with strawberry, redcurrant, baked apple and ripe pear aromas accented by a smoky nuance. Pleasingly light and brisk, with precise, racy red fruit and ripe citrus flavors. Nervy and sharply focused on the back end, finishing with good lift and a lingering suggestion of white pepper. This is really suave."

"The 2003 is a big, powerful Champagne that will require quite a bit of time to shed some of its baby fat. The trademark textural finesse is there, though. I expect the 2003 to be a highly divisive Champagne because of its extreme personality, but then again, many of the world’s legendary wines were made from vintages considered freakish at the time. The 2003 is an atypically, rich, powerful, vinous Dom Perignon loaded with fruit, structure and personality. It is not for the timid, but rather it is a wine for those who can be patient. No one has a crystal ball, but personally I will not be surprised if in 20 years’ time the 2003 is considered an iconic Champagne."

"The Grande Cuvee (disgorged 1998) is scented of croissant, buttered cinnamon toast and warm strawberries with a hint of smoky bacon. Muscular and still very taut in the mouth, the densely packed flavors are refreshed with a pure, crisp acid line. It finishes long with plenty of toast and nut layers."