772 | Wine | Chablis, $50 to $100

"Bright, pale green. Subtle, delicate aromas of white peach, mint, crushed stone and chlorophyll. Less complex today than the Preuses but this is still an infant. All about white peach lifted by white pepper. Fine-grained, silky and utterly vibrant wine, delivering outstanding density and fullness without weight. Great slowly mounting finish promises much more to come."
Stephen Tanzer, International Wine Cellar - 95 pts

"The 2010 Chablis Les Clos is all about understatement and balance. White floral notes meld into white stone fruit in this utterly gracious Chablis. Clos can at times be fleeting and elusive, and there is certainly some of that in the 2010. Still, it is impossible to miss the wine’s textural finesse and sheer overall balance. I will not be surprised if the 2010 continues to get better in bottle."

"Rich tropical fruit, nectarine, orange blossom, spices and French oak burst from 2010 Chablis Bouguerots. Once again, the Bouguerots comes across as big and broad shouldered, with considerable intensity, richness and depth. This is a decidedly powerful, ripe wine that also shows significant oak influence from the 100% vinification and aging in oak."

"The 2010 Chablis Les Clos is rich, seamless and graced with exquisite purity. White flowers, mint, spices and jasmine are woven together beautifully in this expressive, layered Les Clos. Hints of ash, smoke and licorice linger on the expressive finish. I especially like the purity and finesse here."

"The 2009 Chablis Grenouilles comes across as quite shy and inward, also because of its recent bottling. White fruit, flowers, mint and citrus are some of the notes that take shape in this beautifully delineated wine. The Grenouille exudes great balance of vineyard and vintage characteristics, much more so than the 2010 at this stage. The glycerin-rich finish shows the richness of the vintage."

"Rather shut down on the nose, hinting at orange peel, nutmeg and minerals. Denser and more savory than the "regular" Clos, but at the same time silkier (the vines here are older). A stronger oak element contributes to the impression of breadth and dryness. More bracing on the long finish than the thick palate suggests, with a piquant note of pineapple. I'd give this very rich and saline wine a few years to absorb some of its oak." Reviewed by Stephen Tanzer.

"The 2009 Chablis Valmur emerges from the glass with tiny bursts of energy and vibrancy. This is a minimalist, understated wine graced with tremendous classiness from start to finish. It is also quite cool and reserved for the vintage. All in all, this is another winner from Moreau."

"Fevre’s 2011 Chablis Les Clos is seriously intense. The Clos is another wine that saturates the palate with endless layers of aromas and flavors in a style that is all about persistence and length. The 2011 will require time, perhaps quite a bit of it, but it is striking for its purity and delineation. This is a very strong showing from Fevre and winemaker Didier Seguir."

"Highly expressive and pure aromas of lime zest, nutmeg, ginger and quinine. Fat on entry, then stuffed with ginger, citrus and stone fruit flavors. Displays a distinct sucrosite without any heaviness. Finishes impressively long and spicy. This reminded me of a cross between an Alsace riesling and pinot gris grand cru. Am I underrating this?" 91-93 points, reviewed by Stephen Tanzer.

"Bright, pale yellow-straw. Reticent stony nose. More filled in than the Blanchots, with good precision to its stone fruit and mineral flavors. Fruity and densely packed, with a bright, tactile, rising finish that owes more to this grand cru than to the very ripe year. I underrated this wine a year ago." -Stephan Tanzer