772 | Wine | Brunello Di Montalcino, $100 and up

"An elegant wine laced with dark cherries, plums, licorice, new leather, mint and French oak. All of the elements come together beautifully in this silky, mid-weight Brunello. The vibrant, eternal finish makes it hard to resist a second taste. This subtle, impeccably refined Brunello can be enjoyed with minimum cellaring, but it will be even better in another few years."

"The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva flows with the essence of dark cherries, blackberries, flowers, violets, licorice and spices, all supported by firm, structured tannins. The 2006 boasts striking inner perfume, big fruit and a huge, explosive finish. The 2006 Riserva is surprisingly vibrant, focused and balanced for such a big wine. The Riserva was made from the estate’s highest altitude vineyards and aged one year in barrique and a second year in cask."

"This has beautiful intensity. Aromas of blackberry and dried mushroom follow through to a full body, with silky, refined tannins and a long aftertaste of bright fruit. Juicy and delicious on the intense finish."

"Shows bright berry, earth, mushroom and leather on the nose. Full-bodied, with very ripe, almost raisiny fruit. Tight and lean now, but the rich fruit comes through on the finish."

"This red starts out ripe and accessible, boasting plum, cherry and chocolate flavors, then turns firm and tight on the finish, where tobacco and mineral notes take over. I like the potential of this when it integrates more fully."

"The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Le Lucere is a quirky, idiosyncratic wine. High-toned, mentholated aromatics lead to a core of dark fruit in this firm, classically built Brunello. This is a decidedly more structured style than the more forward fruit-driven 2005s. The overt oak and rising bouquet suggest volatile acidity that is at the higher end of the range most tasters are likely to find acceptable. Readers who can look past those imperfections will find a very pretty Brunello to enjoy over the next decade or so, perhaps longer."