772 | Wine | Rioja, $100 and up, 750 ml

"A sublime nose of pain grille, graphite, black cherry, wild blue fruits, and blackberry. This leads to a dense, plush, remarkably elegant wine which is already exhibiting some complexity."

"It is the epitome of elegance with a sensual bouquet, a silky texture, already complex flavors, and a lengthy, pure finish. It will offer at least a 20 year lifespan, just long enough for the 2009 to be hitting its stride."

"It has an ethereal nose found only in the greatest wines. Toasty oak, wood smoke, truffle, wild blueberry, and blackberry liqueur are striking and complex. This is followed by a layered wine with an elegant personality that still has plenty of grip, breadth, and length. It is a tour de force that will provide pleasure over the next 20-25 years."

"The palate is full-bodied with a silky smooth texture, the oak singing from the same hymn sheet as the precocious fruit that is underpinned by super-fine tannins. It offers weightless intensity. The Pagos Viejos has fine symmetry and poise towards the finish with a just a faint tang of Seville orange marmalade on the aftertaste. Everything is in place - just add time."

"The nose is very lifted with floral notes: crushed violets and rose petals sprinkled over cassis and dark plum fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and a gentle, insistent grip. It has a satin-like texture, bewitching harmony and a precise, languorous finish that exhibits spine-tingling minerality. Returning to the bottle hours after opening, it evolves ever-higher degrees of harmony and sumptuousness. It almost leaves you giggling stupidly at how good it is. It is expensive, but it is also cheaper than a First Growth."

"Opaque purple/black, it has a great brooding nose of crushed stone, truffle, pencil lead, black cherry, and blackberry. Rich, layered, and opulent, on the palate the wine is dense, thick, and tightly wound."

"It has a heavenly bouquet that soars from the glass with soy, marmalade, a touch of Seville orange marmalade and cloves, all with superb delineation. The palate is very well-balanced with crisp, finely-tuned tannins that lend it wonderful focus. One can find vivacious flavors of strawberry, orange sorbet and citrus lemon while the finish is incredibly youthful and displays a level of tension that Alfred Hitchcock would be proud of. Outstanding traditional Rioja pulled out from the top drawer. Why? Because it whisks the drinker from wherever they are to, where the wine was born."

"Purple/black in color with a surreal bouquet of kinky spice, truffle, mineral, and black fruit aromas, on the palate it is remarkably powerful, yet elegant. Mouth-filling, complex, and staggeringly rich, it has the balance to evolve for 15-20 years and should easily have a 50 year lifespan."

"It has a very sensual bouquet with dark cherries, creme de cassis and creamy new oak smeared on top - without compromising delineation. The palate is full-bodied and is certainly the most voluminous of the three single vineyard wines, with perhaps the best balance and freshness, seeming to handle that oak with style. The finish is beautifully poised with life-affirming freshness. Primal but persuasive, this should turn out to be a fantastic Rioja."

"The 2009 has a fresh, floral, Margaux-like bouquet with fine delineation and intensity. The palate is full-bodied with an almost impenetrable carapace of licorice-tinged black fruits, minerals, citrus peel and a powerful, sensual finish. Perhaps impressive more than pleasurable (at the moment), this behemoth will need a decade in the cellar before it will shine."