772 | Wine | Germany, 2010

"Fresh kiwi and lime scent and lusciously coat the palate. ...from Christoffel’s 2010 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett, wreathed with Treppchen-like high tones of herbal extracts. Polished in feel and somehow at once soothing and refreshingly stimulating, this finishes with vivid juiciness of fruit; positive tartness serving for focus; and a distinct note of stone. While it might be marginally less winsome than the corresponding Erdener, I wouldn’t be surprised to see this remain fresh and interesting longer, probably for at least 12-15 years. By now at this address, it’s become commonplace to have Kabinetts that are really Auslesen when measured even by the standards that prevailed here in the mid-nineties – let alone a quarter century ago when I first met Christoffel. But here I must say that despite the analysis this displays real Kabinett-like levity and vivacity."

"Scents of lime, kiwi, basil, juniper, and chervil. ...and the corresponding display on a bright and relatively firm palate is piquant and zesty. This finishes with nice integration of its slightly bitter elements; impeccably-balanced sweetness; and admirable sheer persistence."

"The caramel edge and rounded palate impression of Leitzs 2009 Rudesheimer Magdalenenkreuz Riesling Spatlese point toward the super-ripe and botrytis-inflected side of its vintage. A Bittersweet amalgam of peach and apple with vanilla, peach kernel, and apple pip, this soothes where the Dragonstone practically incites (not to mention excites). This long-finishing “fruit bomb” can probably be counted on in such a vintage for 15-20 years of service, though I know of nobody (conspicuously including both yours truly and Johannes Leitz) who has put that to the test."