772 | Wine | Tuscany, 91 or higher, 1.5 L

"Bright red-ruby. Ripe aromas of sweet red cherries macerated in alcohol, cedar, cinnamon and pepper. Suave and seamless, with soft, almost-overripe flavors of redcurrant jam, red plum syrup, stewed red plum and tobacco leaf. A very distinctive and much creamier than usual Tignanello, finishing with supple tannins and excellent length. Obviously the product of a warmer year, and though this outstanding Tignanello is a touch less refined than some recent standout vintages, it's hard to argue with its sweet, soft style and early drinking appeal. No need to cellar this too long."

"An elegant wine laced with dark cherries, plums, licorice, new leather, mint and French oak. All of the elements come together beautifully in this silky, mid-weight Brunello. The vibrant, eternal finish makes it hard to resist a second taste. This subtle, impeccably refined Brunello can be enjoyed with minimum cellaring, but it will be even better in another few years."

"Subtle currant, cedar and floral aromas. ...follow through to a dense, full-bodied palate of ripe fruits and silky tannins, with a long finish. A little age will soften this just slightly. Really serious. Best after 2010."

"The 2008 Masseto comes across as relatively reserved and along the lines of vintages like 1988 that age beautifully but aren’t the blockbuster type wines usually associated with Maremma. Freshly cut flowers, crushed rocks, spices and black cherries are some of the aromas and flavors that emerge from the 2008. This is an exceptionally beautiful Masseto that impresses for its elegance. The wine fleshes out nicely in the glass, while retaining its refined personality."

"Pure, superripe aromas of red cherry, violet, iodine and nutmeg. Superrich, highly concentrated and seamless, with densely packed flavors of raspberry, dark plum and marzipan. Finishes creamy-rich and explosively long, with a pretty violet note. This was so good I really had trouble letting the glass go. It's also the only time I can remember Fontalloro outclassing Rancia (of which I am a huge fan) by such a wide margin, something I had noticed even when tasting barrel samples of these two wines in the estate's cellar two years ago. I'd wait a good five years on this one, then enjoy it for another two decades. Proof positive that sangiovese is one of the world's great grape varieties."

"The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino is a serious, intense Brunello. Wild cherries, herbs, tobacco, spices and worn-in leather are some of the aromas and flavors that flow from this wiry, structured wine. This shows plenty of length on the palate, although the tannins dry out a touch on the finish."

"Shows bright berry, earth, mushroom and leather on the nose. Full-bodied, with very ripe, almost raisiny fruit. Tight and lean now, but the rich fruit comes through on the finish."

"The 2008 Guado al Tasso is once again fabulous. In fact, it may be Tuscany’s most improved wine over the last few years. Firm, vibrant tannins support expressive layers of dark fruit, plums, cherries, sage, espresso and mocha. The wine shows fabulous detail and nuance in a translucent, totally seductive style, with tons of focus, drive and verve. It is a striking wine that will be a joy to follow over the coming years."

"I prefer the 2001 Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale Oro with the gold label, however, very elegant in its aromas and flavors of cranberries and raspberries, tobacco, and violets, vigorous and sustained on the mid-palate and finish and with tasty, textured tannins on the close."

"The 2009 Sassicaia is unusually big, rich and opulent. Layers of fruit saturate the palate as the 2009 explodes from the glass with a heady melange of dark berries, plums, menthol, licorice and new leather. This is an especially racy Sassicaia. Readers who enjoy the classicism of Sassicaia are likely to find the 2009 too rich, especially at this early stage. The wine needs at least a few years in bottle to drop some of its baby fat. Despite its huge fruit, the 2009 is also pretty closed down and not anywhere close to being ready to show off its pedigree. Sassicaia is arguably Italy’s most famous wine, so it’s always great when it lives up to its reputation."