5 | Wine | Champagne | Page 31

"The 1999 Brut Blanc de Blancs is another deep, multi-dimensional wine from Billecart-Salmon. Here the fruit shows slightly more burnished tones, along with greater textural richness and weight, all while retaining surprising verve and cut. Roasted hazelnuts, smoke and pastry crust add complexity on the suave finish."

"Round and refined, yet with good grip that keeps its peach, apple, ginger and mineral notes focused and long. It's all nicely balanced and bright."

"Light yellow-gold. Poached pear, apricot and honey on the nose, with hints of chalk and ginger adding brightness. Sappy and gently sweet, with a creamy texture and good heft to its ripe pit fruit flavors. A late note of orange marmalade adds cut to the long, juicy finish. As usual, this is one of the best examples of the category, which is sorely under-appreciated these days; it would be a superb Champagne choice to accompany rich double or triple cream, blue or washed rind cheeses."