5 | Wine | Rhone, $100 and up, 86 or higher

"Potentially the wine of the vintage, the 2009 Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape Hommage a Jacques Perrin had just been bottled two weeks before my visit. A wine of extraordinary density, richness, precision and unreal flavor intensity, it reveals abundant gamey, meaty notes intermixed with smoked duck, Provencal herbs, blueberries, blackberries, kirsch and licorice. This loaded, multidimensional, massively concentrated 2009 is much softer than most Hommages. It should be drinkable in 3-4 years and keep for 30-40 years thereafter. Kudos to one of the world’s great winemaking families!" Reviewed by Robert Parker.

"Ripe, with the lush crème de cassis and crushed plum fruit of the vintage, showing excellent focus and drive, with racy acidity and taut, licorice-tinged structure. Turns flashy and exotic on the finish, with mulled blueberry, incense and fruitcake notes that are laid over impressive, graphite-filled grip."

"The 2010 is a fabulous wine of exceptional intensity, tremendous flavor authority and full-bodied power. Very rich with lots of Provencal herb, smoky, meaty, kirsch, black currant and blackberry notes, it is a stunningly viscous, thick and rich effort with a slightly more vibrant finish." -Robert Parker

"Gorgeous kirsch liqueur notes, raspberry jam, forest floor, spice box, new saddle leather and a peppery spiciness are all present in this deep, voluptuously textured, open-knit Clos des Papes, which is atypically forward, luscious and approachable already. These wines often need a good 5-10 years of cellaring in the more structured vintages, but the 2009 is gorgeous from the get-go. This full-bodied, deep, concentrated wine has a deep purple color and should drink well for 20-25 years without ever really closing down." Reviewed by Robert Parker.

"An incredibly subtle perfume of black raspberries, creme de cassis, camphor, and acacia flowers is followed by an elegant, concentrated wine with beautifully integrated acidity, tannin, wood, and alcohol. This seamless, gorgeously-proportioned, large-framed wine represents the definition of finesse, elegance, and terroir." Reviewed by Robert Parker.

"This is dense and chewy, but not tiring to drink, thanks to fresh acidity and an edgy, gravelly feel that drives the blackberry, currant and sweet spice notes. The long finish has great briary grip, with notes of garrigue and hot stone checking in."

"As I have mentioned before, the Cote Rotie Chateau d’Ampuis is a blend of some of the very best sites the Guigal family owns in Cote Rotie. This cuvee is aged 38 months in 100% new oak casks, and about 2,000 cases are produced. The component parts include the famed vineyards of La Garde, L’Enclos, Grande-Plantee, Pommiere, Pavillon, Le Moulin and more recently, La Viria, which I still believe will turn out to be Guigal’s fourth single vineyard Cote Rotie when Marcel and his son, Philippe, decide it can stand alone. A super effort, the 2007 reveals notes of black raspberries, ground pepper, lard, roasted coffee, herbs and cassis as well as hints of licorice and tapenade, and sweet tannin. It is one of the most aromatically complex Chateau d’Ampuis Cote Roties I have ever tasted. The silkiness of the tannins and the up-front forwardness of the wine suggest it should be drunk over the next 10-12 years." 92-94 pts, reviewed by Robert Parker.

"More restrained than usual, with more minerality and acidity, which is in keeping with the vintage character. While still relatively exotic, everything is more buttoned down. However, the overall impression is of a full-bodied, powerful, honeyed white wine with superb depth, richness, and potential complexity. This beauty should be at its peak between 2010 and 2015." Reviewed by Robert Parker.

"One of the more endowed 2009s, this is packed with dark smoldering cocoa, mesquite, tobacco and roasted fig notes, all inlaid with pure cassis and plum preserves fruit flavors. Long and authoritative on the finish, with singed vanilla bean and tar adding length and dimension."

"An absolute monster as well as a candidate for perfection, the 2007 Cote Rotie La Landonne was vinified with 100% stems (whereas the 2007 La Turque was completely destemmed). The result is an opaque purple-colored wine displaying beautiful aromas of camphor, incense, balsamic notes, blackberries, cassis and an ethereal, subtle graphite character. Terrific intensity, a full-bodied mouthfeel and stunning length make for an exquisite wine that will benefit from 4-5 years of cellaring, and last for 40-50 years." 98-100 pts, reviewed by Robert Parker.