5 | Wine | 86 or higher, 1998

"Rich, smoky aromas of buttery pear, peach and smoked meat, complemented by exotic spice accents and a hint of white flowers; seems livelier on the nose than the deep, rich 1996 version. Weighty citrus and orchard fruit flavors are framed by juicy acids, and come across as a bit youthfully stunted right now. With air a note of poached pear emerged, along with a suggestion of toffeed hazelnut."

"Like finely woven silk, this offers beautiful texture, sublime balance and integration. Rich apple pastry, candied orange peel, crystallized honey and dried apricot flavors are layered with hints of smoke, sea salt and toasted nut. Lovely, with a fresh, persistent finish."

"Exhibits a dark plum/purple color as well as an elegant nose of mocha, coffee, cherries, blackberries, and chocolate. It has turned out to be more finesse-styled and less exotic than past vintages. This medium to full-bodied, beautifully concentrated wine reveals chocolate overtones in the aromas and flavors. With exceptional purity, balance, and length, it should turn out to be one of the most elegant Valandrauds yet produced." Reviewed by Robert Parker

"Smoky orange, lemon pith and date aromas are complicated by pungent herbs, minerals and dried flowers. Fleshy, impressively pliant and deep, offering concentrated orchard and pit fruit flavors, chewy texture and a whiplash of dusty minerals on the finish. I suspect that this impressively taut wine will continue to gain weight and power for at least a decade."

"Fresh citrus pith and smoky minerals complement pear and nectarine aromas, with a suave toasty character adding depth. Vibrant orchard fruit flavors are deep but lively, picking up an exotic floral honey quality on the long, chewy finish. Plenty going on already but this has the depth and balance to repay cellaring." Reviewed by Stephen Tanzer.

"Copper-tinted pink with a strong mousse Intense aromas of redcurrant, rhubarb, wild strawberry, poached pear and rose petal, with complicating Asian spice notes. Full and rich, with plenty of heft to the broad red berry and cherry flavors and a solid core of acidity giving lift to the wine. Finishes spicy and sweet, with superb depth and a lip-smacking impression of minerality."

"Deeply pitched aromas of candied citrus fruits, pear skin, peach, anise and smoky herbs, with slow-building florality. Toasty and broad, showing impressive power and focus to its ripe orange and pit fruit flavors. Brighter on the finish, which hangs on with excellent tenacity and leaves behind notes of candied nuts, flowers and citrus pith. This Champagne has loosened up a bit since I tasted it last year and is showing more complexity, but it still deserves some patience, or at least an hour of air."

"Light gold. Intensely aromatic nose offers a complex bouquet of smoky orchard and pit fruit aromas, along with exotic orange zest and white pepper. Deep and chewy, displaying impressively concentrated but brisk pear and bitter citrus pith flavors and an undercurrent of buttery brioche and lees. Finishes with palate-staining persistence and a subtle anise quality. As usual, a stunner."

"Stony peach and pear aromas are complicated by smoked meat and Asian spices. Round and filled in, with admirably deep pit fruit flavors, a pliant texture and a fresh mineral kick on the finish. Leaves a strong pear impression on the palate and an echo of minerals."

"Light gold with a lively mousse. Impressively complex bouquet of citrus, pear, toasted hazelnut, flowers and musky herbs. Fleshy and deep, offering a broad array of orchard and pit fruit flavors along with deeper toffee and butter qualities. A snap of dusty minerals adds vivacity and extends through the palate-staining finish, which leaves floral, mineral and fruit skin notes behind. This is already showing a lot of personality but it has the depth to evolve in bottle for at least another decade."