5 | Wine | Mosel-saar-ruwer, $20 to $50, 86 to 90

"Fresh kiwi and lime scent and lusciously coat the palate. ...from Christoffel’s 2010 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett, wreathed with Treppchen-like high tones of herbal extracts. Polished in feel and somehow at once soothing and refreshingly stimulating, this finishes with vivid juiciness of fruit; positive tartness serving for focus; and a distinct note of stone. While it might be marginally less winsome than the corresponding Erdener, I wouldn’t be surprised to see this remain fresh and interesting longer, probably for at least 12-15 years. By now at this address, it’s become commonplace to have Kabinetts that are really Auslesen when measured even by the standards that prevailed here in the mid-nineties – let alone a quarter century ago when I first met Christoffel. But here I must say that despite the analysis this displays real Kabinett-like levity and vivacity."

"Redolent of fresh-cut nectarine, with a firm edge to the acidity and plenty of minerally notes. Light and airy on the finish, with crunchy green apple and citrus elements."

"This vibrant, fresh Riesling delivers good concentration to the apple, gooseberry and white plum flavors. Sea salt and slate notes linger on the zesty finish."