5 | Wine | 1998

"The 1998 Dom Ruinart Brut Vintage is simply gorgeous. This taut, focused Champagne is currently quite shut down and appears to be holding back much of its potential. Still, the wine possesses plenty of density in its ripe Chardonnay fruit, smoke and minerals, with a long, subtle finish."

"Rich, smoky aromas of buttery pear, peach and smoked meat, complemented by exotic spice accents and a hint of white flowers; seems livelier on the nose than the deep, rich 1996 version. Weighty citrus and orchard fruit flavors are framed by juicy acids, and come across as a bit youthfully stunted right now. With air a note of poached pear emerged, along with a suggestion of toffeed hazelnut."

"Exhibits a dark plum/purple color as well as an elegant nose of mocha, coffee, cherries, blackberries, and chocolate. It has turned out to be more finesse-styled and less exotic than past vintages. This medium to full-bodied, beautifully concentrated wine reveals chocolate overtones in the aromas and flavors. With exceptional purity, balance, and length, it should turn out to be one of the most elegant Valandrauds yet produced." Reviewed by Robert Parker

"Like finely woven silk, this offers beautiful texture, sublime balance and integration. Rich apple pastry, candied orange peel, crystallized honey and dried apricot flavors are layered with hints of smoke, sea salt and toasted nut. Lovely, with a fresh, persistent finish."

"Smoky orange, lemon pith and date aromas are complicated by pungent herbs, minerals and dried flowers. Fleshy, impressively pliant and deep, offering concentrated orchard and pit fruit flavors, chewy texture and a whiplash of dusty minerals on the finish. I suspect that this impressively taut wine will continue to gain weight and power for at least a decade."

"Light gold. Rich, smoky aromas of buttery pear, peach and smoked meat, complemented by exotic spice accents and a hint of white flowers; seems livelier on the nose than the deep, rich 1996 version. Weighty citrus and orchard fruit flavors are framed by juicy acids, and come across as a bit youthfully stunted right now. With air a note of poached pear emerged, along with a suggestion of toffeed hazelnut."

"Fresh citrus pith and smoky minerals complement pear and nectarine aromas, with a suave toasty character adding depth. Vibrant orchard fruit flavors are deep but lively, picking up an exotic floral honey quality on the long, chewy finish. Plenty going on already but this has the depth and balance to repay cellaring." Reviewed by Stephen Tanzer.

"Copper-tinted pink with a strong mousse Intense aromas of redcurrant, rhubarb, wild strawberry, poached pear and rose petal, with complicating Asian spice notes. Full and rich, with plenty of heft to the broad red berry and cherry flavors and a solid core of acidity giving lift to the wine. Finishes spicy and sweet, with superb depth and a lip-smacking impression of minerality."