4 | Wine | Mosel-saar-ruwer, 91 to 95

"A racy style, with flinty notes to the fresh-cut apple and crunchy peach flavors, matched to a slightly viscous salinity. Lemon zest lingers on the well-structured finish, revealing hints of passion fruit."

"Shows a well-defined richness to the lusciously fruity flavors of apricot, honeydew melon and white raspberry. A lattice structure supports plenty of spice and white chocolate notes. Finishes with candied ginger."

"Intense aromas and flavors of peach strudel and apple pie feature notes of custard and gooseberry. The vibrant finish echoes with long, pure glazed citrus notes."

"Rich and juicy, with lively acidity to focus its apricot, nectarine, apple and salty lime essence. Terrific balance and harmony, followed by a long finish, makes for a winning combination."

"Kesselstatt’s 2010 Scharzhofberger Riesling Spatlese introduces a musky, honeyed overlay both on the nose and on a glycerin-rich palate, signifying the noble appearance of boytrytis on the stage. Invigoratingly pungent smoky and saliva-inducingly saline elements add further compelling intrigue and sensual appeal to a matrix of nearly overripe peach and herbal essences. There is elegance and lift here as well as a marriage of textural creaminess with vivacity that really display the grower’s and vinifier’s art as well as the uniqueness of a great site and of a style of wine unapproachable anywhere else on earth. Moderate residual sugar reinforces the fruit and moderates any tendency the botrytis might have had toward bitterness but a the same time stays in the background so that while this beauty will no doubt keep well for a quarter century, it is not one of those “sweet” Mosel Rieslings that needs years in bottle to prove versatile at table."

"A powerful white, featuring plenty of minerality and concentrated savory notes to the green apple, nectarine and spice flavors. Slate and smoke fill the rich, zesty finish."

"Tight, with layers of mineral and slate that are closely packed and accented by notes of ripe peach, white cherry and Golden Delicious apple. Very spicy on the finish."

"Apricot pit, papaya and a hint of clove on the nose and palate. Rich to the point of creamy, but given drive by insistent, juicy, ripe acidity. Expressive, crisp and impressively long, this is one of the great spatleses of the vintage."

"Creamy and rich, with vibrant apple, ripe citrus, white berry and currant flavors that are focused and refined. Plush midpalate, with a lingering finish of ripe spice and mineral. Lusciously elegant."