4 | Wine | 86 to 90, 6 L

"Black raspberry, red- and blackcurrants and dark chocolate on the nose, plus hints of mint and green tobacco. Juicy, fruit-driven flavors of dark berries and cocoa powder, complicated by a whiff of meat. Offers classic '97 texture and sweetness. Ripe acids carry the fruit. Finishes with firm but smooth tannins and a note of Cuban tobacco." Reviewed by Stephen Tanzer.

""Dark berries, black cherry and licorice on the nose, with a less exaggerated oak element. ...despite the fact that this was aged in 95% new American barrels. Not particularly sweet, but the mid-palate offers better grip and lift than the 2004, with laid-back flavors of currant, plum and tobacco leaf. Finishes with substantial, slightly dry tannins and good persistence." Reviewed by Stephen Tanzer.

"Aromas of spice, dried currant and zesty berry offer hints of mineral, sage and cedary oak. Leans toward dryness on the finish, where the tannins firm up. Finishes with a nice burst of red fruit."

"Very ripe, slightly jammy aromas of raspberry, chocolate and smoked duck. Sweet and velvety, but sound acids give the fruit an unusually penetrating quality. Quite long and oaky on the finish; chewy tannins coat the palate." 89-91 pts.