4 | Wine | Unrated, 1998

"The 1998 Dom Ruinart Brut Vintage is simply gorgeous. This taut, focused Champagne is currently quite shut down and appears to be holding back much of its potential. Still, the wine possesses plenty of density in its ripe Chardonnay fruit, smoke and minerals, with a long, subtle finish."

"Light gold. Rich, smoky aromas of buttery pear, peach and smoked meat, complemented by exotic spice accents and a hint of white flowers; seems livelier on the nose than the deep, rich 1996 version. Weighty citrus and orchard fruit flavors are framed by juicy acids, and come across as a bit youthfully stunted right now. With air a note of poached pear emerged, along with a suggestion of toffeed hazelnut."

"The 1998 Amarone reveals a gorgeous nose along with ripe red cherries, cough syrup, spices and minerals on a medium-bodied frame. Made in a sweet, inviting style, it offers excellent length as well as purity in a very classic style. It also appears to have enough fruit to compensate for the volatile acidity which is present."