4 | Wine | Port, Portugal, $100 and up

"Green-edged tawny, like a maturing Madeira. Fabulously complex aromas of toasted marshmallow, fig, toffee, cinnamon and curry. A wine of great extract but much softer than the 30-year-old. A nutty, marzipan-like sweetness contributes to the wine's uncanny mellowness." Reviewed by Stephen Tanzer.

"The 1983, like most vintage ports, seems more forward than normal but has a great depth of very ripe, viscous, unctuous, plummy, tarry fruit and significant tannin in its long finish."

"In a port tasting, tasting Graham's is almost like tasting a big, rich, succulent Merlot after a group of blockbuster, tannic Cabernets. Sweeter and more obvious than many ports, the opaque purple-colored 1994 is fruity, powerful, and rich, with an addictive hedonistic quality. It will be ready to drink in 8-10 years and keep for up to 30. As always, this is a showy, flamboyant port that has the advantage of being slightly sweeter than other 1994s. A great Graham's. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2035." -Robert Parker October, 1996

"Smells like freshly picked orchids, with loads of ripe, clean fruit. Full-bodied, medium sweet and very powerful and racy. It lasts for minutes on your palate. Yet there's a balance and class to this young Vintage Port. This is the greatest glass of Graham I have ever tasted, young or old."

"Graham is another great port house, producing one of the deepest-colored and sweetest styles of vintage port. Along with Taylor and Fonseca, Graham has probably been the most consistent producer of great port in the post- World War II era. Their tawnys are quite good rather than exceptional, but their vintage ports are truly sublime and sumptuous."

"Fabulous finish and plenty of walnut and toffee character. Full-bodied and incredibly sweet, offering a burnt orange, nut flavor. Delicious old wine."

"When tasting young vintage ports, Taylor is always the most backward. Yet potentially, it has the capability to be the most majestic. This classically made, opaque purple-colored wine is crammed with black fruits (blueberries and cassis). It reveals high tannin and a reserved style, but it is enormously constituted with massive body, a formidable mid-palate, and exceptional length. It is a young, rich, powerful Taylor that will require 10-15 years of aging."

"Yummy nose, with blackberries, licorice and cherries. Wonderful. Full-bodied, medium sweet, with ultrarefined tannins and a very long finish. Very concentrated, yet elegant and smooth."