4 | Wine | Italy, $20 to $50, 2010

"The 2010 Guidalberto comes across as cool and inward in this vintage. Most recent Guidalbertos have been delicious upon release, but this is a wine that will need another year or two before it starts opening up. There is plenty of energy and vitality in the glass, but readers will need to be patient. Dark red cherries, flowers, licorice and a hint of tobacco are layered into the firm, structured finish."

"The 2010 Rosso di Montalcino shows the muscle and depth of Castelnuovo in its richness and power. Layers of dark red fruit wrap around the palate in this plush, inviting Rosso."

"Purple ruby. Aromas of blueberry, black cherry and spicy underbrush. Sweet, layered and lush, with cassis and Oriental spice flavors lifted by zingy peppery quality. Really builds on the back end. This is a very impressive entry-level wine: splurge on a bottle for a high-end BBQ."

"The 2010 Chianti Classico shows lovely depth and power in its expressive dark cherries, plums, spices, menthol and licorice. Clean veins of minerality give the wine its considerable focus and energy. This is an especially understated wine from Fonterutoli, but it works. A clean, vibrant finish of stone fruits, flowers and spices resonates on the close."