4 | Wine | Greece, 86 or higher

"The 2011 Santorini is an exceptional Assyrtiko from Sigalas, another great moment for this estate. On opening, I was actually surprised at how fruity and accessible it seemed, since these often need a lot of time to show well when young. It seemed elegant and refined, with a lush texture and a beautifully lingering finish. I suspected that was only half the story. Indeed, it was not even half the story and as it turns out it was really shut down. The next day it fulfilled the promises it gave in the first hour or so, fleshing out, seeming deeper and more intense. It still wasn’t done. After letting it air out for awhile on Day 2, this seemingly gentle, young Sigalas became quite intense, the acidity taking charge, the wine still remaining rich and mouth coating. It is crisp and persistent, beautifully put together and impeccably balanced, mingling elegance with that fine structure. It is built to age. This is a wine that should drink better in the next year or two, even if it is entirely enjoyable now."

This wine was named #90 of Wine Spectator's Top 100 Wines of 2012.

"A rapierlike white, delivering apple, pear and grapefruit flavors flanked by plenty of mineral and slate notes. Ripe orange accents linger as plenty of spicy hints mark the vibrant, long-lasting finish."

"Ripe and sweet, with concentrated flavors of glazed apricot, orange peel, smoke and spice. The honeyed finish features vanilla and cream."

"The 2011 Chardonnay “Estate” is a bit of an overachiever. It is quite lovely, juicy, but fresh, clean and bright, with pretty nice solidity in the mid-palate. It has persistence on the finish and it is hard to resist. This is a nicely priced Chardonnay that is awfully tasty and provides bang for the buck. It may not last a long time, but it drinks awfully well young."

"This blend has often been nice for the price, but it certainly seems to be trending upwards. With fine persistence and intensity, this is beautifully balanced and tightly wound, with better aromatics than the winery’s regular, unoaked Assyrtiko due to the blend (5% each of Athiri and Aidani added to the Assyrtiko), if not as much depth and intensity. This is simply lovely this year, one of the finest values in this report, transparent, focused and crisp, yet caressing and accessible. If you’re looking for fruity and sweet, this is not as likely to fulfill your goals. It is an overachiever, though."

"The 2010 Robola has evolved brilliantly with a little more time to settle down, finally showing better integration of its parts and revealing itself to be ageworthy as well. This is a rather obscure grape for most consumers and little understood. This shows what it is all about. Pulling this wine out of the refrigerator and tasting it promptly is a really bad idea. It is big and crisp. At 50?F or below, it was all acid, no fruit, austere, shrill and charmless. In the mid-fifties, I began to see hints of the wine I first saw again, and it did not really hit stride until it passed 60?F, finally becoming somewhat more fruit forward – relatively speaking. This, in short, not only remains lovely, but seems to have improved considerably, showing the ability to project both fruit and power. The finish is intense and gripping. It has somewhat grassy, but restrained nuances. It should hold better than I first thought, although I am going to remain a bit conservative, and it is not yet at peak. Just for a cherry on top, the price is nice, too."

"The “Axia” level wines are often excellent values here – and this in fact may be the bargain of the lot. With a lush texture opening up, followed by some tannic bursts and very typical, Northern Rhone-y Syrah nuances, this wine shows both power and complexity. It should have the ability to hold a reasonable time in the cellar and develop more. If you’re not a big fan of those Northern Rhone gamey Syrahs, this isn’t for you, as the Syrah notes dominate the wine, but for those who are fans, this is a fine value and a terrific wine with that Xinomavro steel and power underneath that Syrah character. This is a real nice buy."

"Solid in the mid-palate, it is a wine that handles its oak well at this point in its life, showing a fairly light touch. Bright, with some penetration on the finish, it has good persistence and it is quite tasty. For those who go with the flow when it comes to oak and Assrytiko, this is well done."

"Since my last note on this, in which, for whatever reason, I fear I seriously underrated this wine, it has evolved slowly, but it shows well enough to be less disjointed, with additional fruit intensity on the finish and plentiful hints that better integration of its parts will definitely be in its future. There is also the occasional whiff of game, while the oak nuances are very modest, giving this some earthy complexity. It is still a powerful and somewhat rustic wine, which is not necessarily a bad thing in my book, and indeed, this continually grew on me. Elegant in the mid-palate, it opened easy and then packed an increasingly tannic punch on the finish, adding some crisp, tart notes early on. It was not the most charming Xinomavro at that point, but it evolved slowly and relentlessly, drinking beautifully the next day, still a prime time wine with plenty of time left. If you like its somewhat rustic but appealingly earthy style, this is for you, and quite well priced in light of the quality and ageworthiness."

"The 2011 SANTORINI is Assyrtiko, and a rather refined and carefully crafted one that slowly evolves and unwinds, demonstrating its persistence and the ability to improve dramatically in the glass. Boutari seems to have a style, emphasizing harmony and balance, if I can add insights from what I see in Naoussa as well. This is always a more forward Santorini, without the pure power some of the others often show. If this starts with subtlety, however, it gradually becomes more impressive this year as it lingers in the glass and unfolds, showing layers, crispness and persistence that I wasn’t initially sure it had. This is a very fine performance if rather low key performance in this vintage, a harmonious, well balanced offering with surprisingly good aromatics, perhaps tinged by a hint of herbaceousness. For Assyrtiko, this has a lot of personality. I didn’t start out impressed, but it was hard to give up the glass."