4 | Wine | Sweet, 2004

"The 2004 Vinsanto is the eagerly awaited successor to the 2003, which showed more and more class every time I saw it (94 points, Issue 186). This, clocking in at just 9%, could even be better. On first attack, it is remarkably sweet and incredibly delicious (as always). It was just so delectable, it was hard to resist. I wanted to stop tasting and start drinking, but I bravely saved some to sample over the next few days. But that's not all it has and it is by no means a syrupy fruit bomb - it is anything but and well made Vinsanto rarely is. In fact, phase two kicked in pretty fast. The acidity is powerful and it balances the sugar out beautifully. It actually has a mouthpuckering finish early on. There is also tension and intensity on the finish that makes this quite gripping. This is still a baby. If you want to drink it now - you'll find many rewards for doing so. It sure is approachable. But in terms of developing character, it is not showing even a small part of what it will show. These age well (and the drinking window of the 2003 should probably be extended) and with this level of, well, everything, it has the potential to outlive a lot of us. The next day it was slightly richer, even more gripping, longer on the finish and every bit as fresh. On Day 3, it seemed largely unchanged, hardly budging. I'll be reasonable at the moment. Drink now-2050."

"The 2004 Vin Santo del Chianti Classico Occhio di Pernice emerges from the glass with an intriguing array of smoke, licorice, honey, scorched earth and tar, all of which add considerable complexity to the fruit. This is an exotic, full-throttle style of Vin Santo, but there is more than enough freshness to balance some of the wine’s more opulent leanings. From time to time the volatile acidity (always present in sweet wines) sticks out a bit, which is the only thing that keeps the score from going higher."