4 | Wine | 91 to 95, 1996

"There is admirable acidity, weight, texture, and purity in this impeccably made Yquem. ...Compared with the flamboyant aromatics of the 1997, Yquem's 1996 plays it closer to the vest, although there is a lot going on. Light gold with a tight but promising nose of roasted hazelnuts intermixed with creme brulee, vanilla beans, honey, orange marmalade, and peaches, this medium to full-bodied offering reveals loads of power in its restrained, measured personality." Reviewed by Robert Parker.

"Exhibits a moderately intense nose of black cherries, chocolate, smoke, dried herbs, and toasty oak. As reported last year, it appears to be California's version of a big, rich St.-Emilion. Offering elegance and finesse along with copious quantities of fruit, glycerin, and flavor, this medium to full-bodied wine has evolved nicely over the last year, and can be drunk now as well as over the next 12-15 years." Reviewed by Robert Parker

"The 1996 Dominus, a blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 4% Merlot, and 4% Petit Verdot, tips the scales at 14.2% alcohol. Although this offering lacks the power, intensity, and compelling characteristics of the 1991 and 1994, it is not far off the pace of those two monumental wines. A super nose of roasted coffee, chocolate, dried herbs, black fruits and kirsch is both intense and persuasive. The wine displays terrific richness, medium to full body, low acidity, a succulent, opulent texture, and superb purity. This beautifully made 1996 is one of the few wines that has successfully tamed the vintage's elevated tannin level... Impressive!"

"This fabulous 1996 was tasted three times from bottle, and it is unquestionably the finest wine produced by this estate since their blockbuster 1990. Medium to full-bodied, with a saturated black/purple color, the nose offers notes of cedar, jammy black fruits, smoke, truffles, and subtle new oak. In the mouth, there is impressive fruit extraction, a tannic, full-bodied structure, and a classic display of power and finesse. The longer it sat in the glass, the more impressive the wine became. Backward, and massive in terms of its extract and richness, this should prove to be a sensational Leoville-Poyferre for drinking over the next three decades." Reviewed by Robert Parker.

"Crystallized red fruits, woodsmoke, leather, game and iron on the nose. Sweet, round and fat, with wonderful fruit and texture for the year. Spicy and gamey in the middle palate."

"Saturated ruby-red. Pure, highly perfumed aromas of black cherry, currant, plum, minerals, tobacco, leather and fresh herbs. Very ripe, suave and spicy; at once subtle and gripping. Lovely cabernet character dominating today. Very firm, long finish is youthful but not hard-edged." Reviewed by Stephen Tanzer.

"Tangy, seductive aromas of black raspberry, toast, flowers and dark chocolate. Rich, thick, supple and harmonious; very strong extract. Very long finish features sweet tannins. This is superb for the vintage, and more stylish than it appeared from barrel a year ago." Reviewed by Stephen Tanzer May 1999.

"A fresh, elegant rosé, with just a hint of strawberry and cherry flavors, while the citrus and smoke notes dominate. Very refined and well-integrated, with a firm aftertaste of cherry and spice."

"Delicate for 1996, with floral, lemon and bread dough notes and a nice texture. It's still tight and racy, with a laserlike acidity on the finish. I'd like to see a little more generosity and length at this stage, but it shows finesse."

"Boasts an impressively saturated purple color, in addition to a backward yet intense nose of black plums, currants, licorice, and smoke. Following terrific fruit on the attack, the wine's structure and tannin take over. There is plenty of sweet fruit, and the tannin is well-integrated." Reviewed by Robert Parker.