4 | Wine | 95 or higher, 1998

"Like finely woven silk, this offers beautiful texture, sublime balance and integration. Rich apple pastry, candied orange peel, crystallized honey and dried apricot flavors are layered with hints of smoke, sea salt and toasted nut. Lovely, with a fresh, persistent finish."

"Light gold with a lively mousse. Impressively complex bouquet of citrus, pear, toasted hazelnut, flowers and musky herbs. Fleshy and deep, offering a broad array of orchard and pit fruit flavors along with deeper toffee and butter qualities. A snap of dusty minerals adds vivacity and extends through the palate-staining finish, which leaves floral, mineral and fruit skin notes behind. This is already showing a lot of personality but it has the depth to evolve in bottle for at least another decade."