"The 1998 Dom Ruinart Brut Vintage is simply gorgeous. This taut, focused Champagne is currently quite shut down and appears to be holding back much of its potential. Still, the wine possesses plenty of density in its ripe Chardonnay fruit, smoke and minerals, with a long, subtle finish. All this wine needs is time in bottle. If past vintages are any indication, the 1998 should age beautifully. Readers who enjoy fresh wines will find plenty to admire in this wine now, but those who enjoy Champagnes with a little age on them will want to wait a few years before enjoying this fine effort."