3 | Wine | Champagne, 91 to 95, 2004

"Very elegant, this is all in the details, offering precise and silky texture, mouthwatering acidity and a smoky, mineral undertow that enriches flavors of patisserie pear, crystallized honey, kumquat and toasted almond. Offers a clean, citrus-tinged finish."

"Elegant, with lovely texture and focused, lively acidity. Flavors of currant, candied lemon zest, honey and white peach lead to the creamy, biscuit-tinged finish."

"Shows fine balance and texture, with a light chalkiness adding some structure to hints of white peach, apple tarte Tatin, ground ginger and lemon pound cake. Spice and floral notes linger on the clean-cut finish."

"Mineral-accented aromas of lemon, orange peel, jasmine and chamomile, with a touch of pear skin adding depth. Juicy citrus flavors show a silky quality, with spice and floral notes adding complexity. Gains flesh and sweetness with air and finishes with excellent clarity, cut and chalky persistence. This is balanced to age."

"Light, bright gold. Exotic aromas of poached pear, smoky minerals and iodine are complemented by a sexy floral nuance. On the palate, incisive, tangy flavors of candied citrus and orchard fruits, ginger and minerals gain flesh and weight with air. Finishes on a seductively sweet note, with outstanding juicy persistence and strong mineral cut and grip."

"Fresh redcurrant and blood orange aromas are underscored by notes of talc and quinine, with gentle leesiness adding depth and a sense of richness. Displays youthfully tight citrus and mineral qualities on entry, but more powerful red berry notes come on strong in the middle palate. Graceful but powerful too, with good finishing grip and a lingering note of spicecake."

"Light, bright gold with a steady bead. Deep, smoky citrus and pear skin aromas are complicated by notes of floral honey and sweet butter. Broad and open-knit, offering sweet orange and orchard fruit flavors and gentle minerality. The mineral note adds vibrancy to the smooth, juicy finish. This is drinking extremely well right now."

"Light, bright gold. Deeply pitched aromas of pear skin, redcurrant and rhubarb, with musky herbal and floral nuances adding complexity. Sappy, penetrating red berry and orchard fruit flavors show excellent depth, with notes of lemon rind and chalky minerals providing lift. A smoky quality comes up with air and carries through the long, powerful finish. Offers an impressive blend of richness and energy."

"Exotic, highly aromatic nose combines pear, vanilla, allspice, clove, crushed stone and chamomile. Rich on entry, then densely packed, juicy and mineral-accented, with imploded flavors of citrus and orchard fruits, vanilla bean and candied ginger. Finishes with noteworthy cut and clarity, repeating the spice and vanilla notes."

"There's a malty edge to this creamy Champagne, which shows flavors of raisin bread and currant, with a touch of candied orange peel. The airy texture and frothy mousse create an elegant impression and bring you back for another sip, with a lightly juicy finish."