3 | Wine | Sparkling, $100 and up

"The 2003 is a big, powerful Champagne that will require quite a bit of time to shed some of its baby fat. The trademark textural finesse is there, though. I expect the 2003 to be a highly divisive Champagne because of its extreme personality, but then again, many of the world’s legendary wines were made from vintages considered freakish at the time. The 2003 is an atypically, rich, powerful, vinous Dom Perignon loaded with fruit, structure and personality. It is not for the timid, but rather it is a wine for those who can be patient. No one has a crystal ball, but personally I will not be surprised if in 20 years’ time the 2003 is considered an iconic Champagne."

"The Grande Cuvee (disgorged 1998) is scented of croissant, buttered cinnamon toast and warm strawberries with a hint of smoky bacon. Muscular and still very taut in the mouth, the densely packed flavors are refreshed with a pure, crisp acid line. It finishes long with plenty of toast and nut layers."

"Very elegant, this is all in the details, offering precise and silky texture, mouthwatering acidity and a smoky, mineral undertow that enriches flavors of patisserie pear, crystallized honey, kumquat and toasted almond. Offers a clean, citrus-tinged finish."

"Vibrant and mouthwatering, this offers a range of patisserie pear and apple fruit, candied lemon zest, pastry dough and marzipan notes set on a finely detailed texture, which imparts a great deal of finesse. The lasting finish echoes a smoky mineral note."

"Elegant, with lovely texture and focused, lively acidity. Flavors of currant, candied lemon zest, honey and white peach lead to the creamy, biscuit-tinged finish."

"The minerally undertow imparts a subtle, smoky note that blends with flavors of dried pineapple, biscuit, salted almond and white peach. A balanced version, with a fine bead and well-honed acidity."

"Tightly knit, focused by racy acidity and a streak of minerality, this offers subtle notes of white peach, anise, biscuit and kumquat. The refined finish echoes a smoky note."

"Well-balanced, exhibiting flavors of light toast, Gala apple, honey and ginger, with smoke and mineral notes underscoring hints of tropical pineapple and tangerine fruit. There's lovely texture, with a firm backbone of juicy acidity"

"Subtle and creamy. ...with peach and apple flavors shaded by grapefruit and yeast accents. This is compact, despite being ripe, and finishes firm and crisp."