3 | Wine | White, Loire, $10 to $20

"Tasted from tank, into which it had been assembled just two weeks beforehand, the Morin 2011 Sancerre Vieilles Vignes – which will as usual be a cuvee solely for the U.S. market, and bottled unfiltered – brims with bright lime and grapefruit; apple and honeydew melon, offering a lovely balance between lees-enrichment and refreshing vivacity. There is a chalky sense of mineral impingement to the vibrantly zesty, invigorating, yet persistently succulent finish of this buoyant (incidentally, 12.7% alcohol) Sancerre that should drink well for the next 3-4 years if not beyond."

"The color of the wine is fine yellow with a delicate green hue when young, with a floraland intensely aromatic nose typical of excellent Chenin Blanc. The full fruit flavors of green apple evolve to quince and pear on the palate and a finish that shows an excellent balance between acidity, sweetness, and alcohol."

"Lean, tight and rocky are the best descriptors. Complex and mineral which match up nicely with fish."

"A stunning, dry Vouvray (although I suspect there is a touch of residual sugar), this 2011 possesses a flamboyant nose of peaches, orange marmalade, lemon custard and spring flowers. Medium-bodied, elegant, and totally satisfying both intellectually and on the palate, this white wine should drink nicely for several years." -Robert Parker

"Crisp, stony, grapefruit and citrus notes are present in this light-bodied, dry, mineral-laced Muscadet. Wines such as this are the perfect foil for freshly shucked oysters. Enjoy it over the next 1-2 years."