3 | Wine | White, Austria, $20 to $50

"A classic varietal nose of fresh green bean and lime, mingled with gooseberry more reminiscent of Sauvignon, all informing a juicy, brisk, firm palate and finishing with ample refreshment and invigoration as well as a bitter note of fruit pip."

"I find this lightweight Riesling best imagined as a salad of cucumber and fennel lightly-salted and dressed with lime. That the juicy satisfaction to be derived is simple does not make it less delightful, and you may find it difficult to refrain from imbibing the next glass and the next. I would plan on polishing stocks off over the next couple of years, though."

"Hirsch reported that his 2010 Riesling Zobing seemed not to have bounced back and regained its purity of fruit from bottling even though that was two months before I tasted it in mid-June. Bottle shock or any sort of inhibition were however the last notions that would have crossed my mind! It might be a bit spare, but this exuberantly juicy, bright and (at 11.5% alcohol) buoyant amalgam of fresh lime, grapefruit, and white peach garlanded with musky floral perfume and seemingly suffused with crushed stone, salt, and crystalline mineral dust is sheer bottled energy, which should be great fun to unleash at table over the next 3-5 years."

"Orange and lemon blossom and oily zest dominate the nose and firm, almost sharply bright palate, with supplemental floral perfume as well as pungent herbs emerging as the wine opens up. The finish is piquant and intensely invigorating, offering a reverberative interplay of citrus, bittersweetly floral perfume, apricot pit, citrus pip, crushed stone, salts, and mysteriously ore-like mineral presence. For sheer palpable sense of density and extract this surpasses most Kamptal Rieslings of its vintage, and in terms of sheer energy, it finishes not far behind. This ought to prove exciting to follow for the next 8-10 years, if not longer."