3 | Wine | Riesling, Austria, 86 to 90

"I find this lightweight Riesling best imagined as a salad of cucumber and fennel lightly-salted and dressed with lime. That the juicy satisfaction to be derived is simple does not make it less delightful, and you may find it difficult to refrain from imbibing the next glass and the next. I would plan on polishing stocks off over the next couple of years, though."

"Interesting notes of ginger and allspice give this white touches of elegance. The crisp finish is juicy, and filled with snappy Fuji apple and Meyer lemon flavors."

"Hirsch reported that his 2010 Riesling Zobing seemed not to have bounced back and regained its purity of fruit from bottling even though that was two months before I tasted it in mid-June. Bottle shock or any sort of inhibition were however the last notions that would have crossed my mind! It might be a bit spare, but this exuberantly juicy, bright and (at 11.5% alcohol) buoyant amalgam of fresh lime, grapefruit, and white peach garlanded with musky floral perfume and seemingly suffused with crushed stone, salt, and crystalline mineral dust is sheer bottled energy, which should be great fun to unleash at table over the next 3-5 years."