3 | Wine | Saint Julien, 86 to 90

"This St.-Julien is actually made at Ducru Beaucaillou and is designed to offer exuberant cassis fruit with an unmistakable northern Medoc personality. The dense ruby/purple 2009 is delicious, with low acidity and lots of cassis, Christmas fruitcake and spice box. The wine is medium to full-bodied, has no hard edges, and is an attractive, velvety wine to drink over the next 7-8 years. A sleeper of the vintage."-Robert Parker

"Revealing more grip and tannin since bottling, the 1995 Gruaud-Larose exhibits a dark ruby color, and a nose of sweet black cherries, licorice, earth, and spice. Rich, with medium to full body, high tannin, and subtle oak in the background."-Robert Parker

"An exotic perfume of tapenade, new saddle leather, damp earth, black currants, cherries, and smoke jumps from the glass of this impressive, powerful 1999. The wine is medium-bodied with moderate tannin. This dark plum/ruby-colored St.-Julien requires another 2-3 years of cellaring."

"Surprisingly accessible as well as supple, this 2001 St.-Julien reveals a deep plum/purple color along with a rich bouquet of smoke, roasted vegetables, black currants, plums, licorice, and Asian spices. Velvety-textured and medium-bodied, with loads of fruit, and a plump, expansive, plush texture."-Robert Parker

"A perfumed bouquet of flowers, jammy cassis, sweet oak, and truffles jumps from the glass of this ripe, classic, mid-weight claret. The wine is elegant rather than powerful. It possesses intense fruit, admirable ripeness as well as balance, and a long finish." Reviewed by Robert Parker.

"This St.-Julien is actually made at Ducru Beaucaillou and is designed to offer exuberant cassis fruit with an unmistakable northern Medoc personality. The dense ruby/purple 2009 is delicious, with low acidity and lots of cassis, Christmas fruitcake and spice box. The wine is medium to full-bodied, has no hard edges, and is an attractive, velvety wine to drink over the next 7-8 years. A sleeper of the vintage."-Robert Parker

"The dark ruby/purple-hued 2008 reveals an angular, austere personality along with medium to full-bodied, deep, concentrated fruit. An unusually backward and highly tannic 2008, it will benefit from 3-4 years of cellaring and should keep for 20 years." Reviewed by Robert Parker.

"Revealing more grip and tannin since bottling, the 1995 Gruaud-Larose exhibits a dark ruby color, and a nose of sweet black cherries, licorice, earth, and spice. Rich, with medium to full body, high tannin, and subtle oak in the background."-Robert Parker

"Very expressive aromas of plum, coffee, smoked meat, tobacco and underbrush. Rich, ripe and pliant; very easy to taste after the young 2006. Berry flavors are complemented by chocolate and mint. Not at all overly sweet but offers lovely concentration and balance, and finishes supple and persistent. Lovely claret." Reviewed by Stephen Tanzer.

"A strong effort from Talbot, this sexy, medium to full-bodied, richly fruity 2012 exhibits lots of creme de cassis, licorice, roasted herb and spice box characteristics in an evolved yet elegant, round, lush style that was surprisingly seductive and disarming. This offering stood out as one of the stars of St.-Julien. Drink it over the next 12-15 years." -Robert Parker