3 | Wine | Chenin Blanc, 91 to 95

"Bursts from the glass in an exuberant bouquet of buddleia and apple blossom; quince and intimations of wet stone. This transcends the poise and clarity exhibited by several immediately preceding Clos du Papillon bottlings and suggests that – chronologically speaking – we have moved up into a new echelon of expressiveness. The bitter, piquant notes of toasted nut, quinine, white pepper, and fruit pit here are extremely subtle and integrated into a matrix of lusciously juicy pear, white peach, and quince. A salvia-inducing salinity and scallop-like sweetness ally themselves to the stony mineral elements in this wine’s long finishing colloquy with flowers and fruits, and there is a levity and refreshment – a sheer drinkability – that I have not noticed in previous Baumard Savennieres – particularly pre-2007. Yet there is still ample sense of glycerin-richness and subtle oiliness. The combination of roughly a half percent less alcohol and more expressive acidity renders this drier-tasting than its 2006 and 2007 counterparts. Florent Baumard admits that a lesser percentage of his 2008s went through malo-lactic transformation than in most vintages, though I did not have chance to check precise analytical data on that. This sensational value is a delight to drink now. Whether it will “suffer” on that account a reduced “life span” must remain to be seen, although if anything my intuition is that this will be lovely for a decade, but that you would be foolish to deprive yourself of its short-term pleasure."

"A superb wine at a superb price. It has a bright nose of pear, bruised apple and apricot with a prudent use of oak allowing the nose to achieve fine delineation and clarity. The palate is well-defined with a crisp, honeycomb tinged entry, a little spice and orange rind, leading to a finish with great weight and personality. This is a winery that lives up to its name!"

"Tiny berry- and desiccated concentration rather than botrytis characterize even the 2009 Vouvray Moelleux Clos du Bourg Moelleux 1er Trie. This evinces an as yet unresolved tension between fresh citrus, chalk, and alkali on the one hand, and honey, caramel, and nut paste on the other. For all of its ripeness, there is a sense of textural firmness underlying the palate impression here. Marzipan, singed vanilla cookies, and suggestions of both peach and strawberry preserves enhance the wine’s confectionary aura, and despite its manifestly good strong acidity by vintage standards, the nearly 100 grams of residual sugar present here certainly result in a dominating youthful sweetness in its formidably long finish. If you want this to balance on its own (i.e. not in a dessert wine capacity) then I would be prepared to wait more than a decade, and the wine no doubt has at least three in it. Pinguet says this reminds him of the 1989 1er trie bottlings at the same stage."

"This wine has depth and cut, with a salted butter edge giving a mouthwatering feel while pear eau-de-vie, green plum and quince flavors hang in reserve. A lovely salty minerality is embedded in the long finish, which is dry and nervy, but also stylish. Should age gracefully."

"The FMC has a beautifully defined, intoxicating bouquet with lemon curd, frangipane, almond and just a touch of nutmeg. The palate has a rounded, waxy texture with wonderful harmony and precision. There are subtle flavours of dried apricot, brioche, vanilla, a touch of honey (perhaps a little botrytis) and a hint of spice. Seductive, harmonious and very focussed, The FMC is a sublime expression of South African Chenin Blanc."

"A plump, full-bodied style, with a toasted brioche edge to the creamed pear, fig and apple notes. There's creamy mouthfeel and ample length, with a lingering note of hazelnut for a flashy hint."

"Smells effusively and exotically of ripe quince, mango, litchi, and pineapple, along with Chartreuse-like suggestions of distilled floral and herbal essences. In contrast with the corresponding Haut-Lieu, here the acidity is largely integrated and keeps its powder dry for successfully holding at bay the finishing onslaught of residual sugar. Notes of marzipan and peach preserves further add to the almost garish array of nearly over-ripe fruits."

"Dark in tone, this vintage of Coulée de Serrant ripened to broad richness. Sweet scents of clover honey and ginger lend delicacy to its potent yellow fruit flavors. It hints at star fruit and quince, needing bottle age to detail its full range of complexities."