3 | Wine | Barbera, $20 to $50, 91 or higher

"The 2008 Barbera d’Alba Cascina Francia is a classic Conterno Barbera. Layers of dark, brooding fruit come forth gradually, along with exotic scents of new leather, licorice, tar and soy that add complexity. This is a decidedly reserved, mineral-driven Barbera that will appeal most to readers who appreciate the focused side of Barbera as opposed to more opulent vintages such as 2007 where the fruit is decidedly forward. The Cascina Francia shows greater richness and density than the Ceretta, suggesting the direction that wine is likely to take in coming years."

"Packed with fruit and spice, this displays flavors of violet candy and black currant, with vanilla and licorice accents. Well put together, with a light coating of tannins on the finish."

"The 2006 Barbera d’Alba Superiore Scudetto is a wonderfully poised, vibrant wine. Black cherries, minerals, violets, licorice and tar come together beautifully on a mid-weight, elegant frame. The Scudetto is easy to overlook in a lineup with so many great wines, but in top vintages it deserves serious consideration. The 2006 is gorgeous from start to finish."