3 | Wine | Tuscany, 95 or higher, 2007

"The 2007 Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova saturates the palate with masses of super-ripe dark fruit, tar, licorice and new leather. The Tenuta Nuova is an especially full-bodied, seamless Sangiovese deeply influenced by the Mediterranean climate of this warm site in the south of Montalcino. Layers of fruit build to an effortless, resonant finish laced with considerable aromatic nuance. This is another terrific showing from Giacomo Neri and his talented team."

"The 2007 Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo is a wine that expresses a contemporary vision of what Chianti Classico can be but without ever fully abandoning its roots. The single-vineyard Vigna del Sorbo adds 10% Cabernet Sauvignon (planted on Sangiovese rootstocks) to the Sangiovese. Texturally it is classic Sangiovese with the fine, sweet tannins that are the hallmark of the vintage, while the Cabernet adds a sepia-hued dimension to the fruit and an element of greater richness in the body, but without dominating the aromatic or flavor profile. The radiant warmth of Panzano doesn’t hurt either, as the fruit is gloriously ripe and soft in this vintage. Everything is beautifully in balance, including the oak, which is barely perceptible."

"Pure, superripe aromas of red cherry, violet, iodine and nutmeg. Superrich, highly concentrated and seamless, with densely packed flavors of raspberry, dark plum and marzipan. Finishes creamy-rich and explosively long, with a pretty violet note. This was so good I really had trouble letting the glass go. It's also the only time I can remember Fontalloro outclassing Rancia (of which I am a huge fan) by such a wide margin, something I had noticed even when tasting barrel samples of these two wines in the estate's cellar two years ago. I'd wait a good five years on this one, then enjoy it for another two decades. Proof positive that sangiovese is one of the world's great grape varieties."

"I tasted the 2007 Flaccianello a number of times from barrel and tank before it was bottled. The 2007 is a bold, extroverted Flaccianello that sweeps across the palate with sensual layers of candied cherries, violets, spices and minerals. Dark, mentholated notes develop in the glass, adding further dimensions of inner sweetness, weight and complexity to this Tuscan thoroughbred. While so many 2007s are forward and open, Flaccianello remains muscular, taut and in need of significant cellaring. Still, the round, enveloping finish augurs extremely well for the future."

"The 2007 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia is another dazzling wine. This is a vintage of overt, sumptuous fruit and pure sexiness. Despite its richness, the 2007 never loses its sense of structure, but in this vintage the tannins are nearly buried by the huge fruit. Today the 2007 comes across as a hypothetical blend of the 2004 and 2006, with the finesse of the former and the size of the latter. Not a bad combination, to put it mildly. In the glass the wine is alive, vibrant and totally captivating."

"Explodes onto the palate with masses of rich, opulent fruit that caress the palate with gorgeous length and a seamless beauty that is hard to fully capture. Dark wild cherries, plums, spices, minerals and herbs develop in the glass. This is an especially bold, perhaps slightly uncharacteristic Sassicaia in its extroverted personality, but it is beautiful all the same. The inner perfume and sweetness carries through the long finish, where the sheer weight and glycerol of the fruit leaves a lasting impression."

"Explodes onto the palate with masses of rich, opulent fruit that caress the palate with gorgeous length and a seamless beauty that is hard to fully capture. Dark wild cherries, plums, spices, minerals and herbs develop in the glass. This is an especially bold, perhaps slightly uncharacteristic Sassicaia in its extroverted personality, but it is beautiful all the same. The inner perfume and sweetness carries through the long finish, where the sheer weight and glycerol of the fruit leaves a lasting impression."

"Shows violet, cream, mineral, mint and blueberry on the nose. Full-bodied, with fabulous fruit and polished, velvety tannins. The finish lasts for minutes. The balance is wonderful. Deep and beautiful. Hard not to drink now."

"The 2007 Brunello di Montalcino is striking in this vintage, just as it was in 2006. Freshly cut flowers, spices, mint, licorice and tobacco are some of the many notes that jump from the glass in this highly expressive, engaging Brunello. The 2007 shows the freshness and energy of this hillside site on the Montosoli hill with the generosity of the vintage, a very appealing combination in my book. The finish is pure silk and finesse. Once again, the Voliero Brunello is one of the most exciting and complete wines of the vintage."