2 | Wine | Greece | Page 5

"The 2011 SANTORINI is Assyrtiko, and a rather refined and carefully crafted one that slowly evolves and unwinds, demonstrating its persistence and the ability to improve dramatically in the glass. Boutari seems to have a style, emphasizing harmony and balance, if I can add insights from what I see in Naoussa as well. This is always a more forward Santorini, without the pure power some of the others often show. If this starts with subtlety, however, it gradually becomes more impressive this year as it lingers in the glass and unfolds, showing layers, crispness and persistence that I wasn’t initially sure it had. This is a very fine performance if rather low key performance in this vintage, a harmonious, well balanced offering with surprisingly good aromatics, perhaps tinged by a hint of herbaceousness. For Assyrtiko, this has a lot of personality. I didn’t start out impressed, but it was hard to give up the glass."

"The 2011 Malagouzia “Axia” was raw and unevolved when I first saw it very early on. I wish everyone could taste it under these circumstances – so exuberant and pure, with hints of peach and grass. It was almost like a tank sample when tasted. It is delicious, friendly and fresh, if not terribly concentrated and not likely to develop much if at all with age. As I like to say with certain types of wines, however long they theoretically hold, you’ll do yourself a favor drinking them young and fresh as they may have nowhere to go but down and the youthful exuberance is one of their best features. I believe that is the case here, although the wine should hold a couple of years. It should win the winery a lot of friends this summer, though."

"The NV Brut “Ode Panos” is a reliable sparkling Moschofilero coming in at just 11.5% alcohol. This has light toast, fine acidity and excellent balance, finishing succulent, juicy and refreshing. There is a subtle richness, but it is an elegant wine, best enjoyed on the younger side. Although a non-vintage bottling, it has a lot number printed on the black foil – L1041. Note that it is very hard to see, tiny and nearly submerged by the black color, requiring both good light and eyes. On my bottle it was aligned with the back label, not the front."

"This is just what you want for a dry white in the summer--elegant and refreshing, clean and crisp, marked by invigoratingly grassy aromatics. It just a bit of a nod to a Sauvignon Blanc. For all that, it shows some reasonable integration of those characteristics and seems quite harmonious, projecting a “pull up a chair and sit awhile” demeanor. You can just see sipping on this all through a summer night."