2 | Wine | Barolo | Page 4

"Fabulously rich, dense and well-balanced in this vintage. The Costa Grimaldi is made from a parcel of the Via Nuova vineyard in Barolo at 350 meters above sea level with a sheltered south-east exposure that provides respite in warmer years. This shows tons of vintage character in its racy, elegant fruit and silky tannins, along with superb depth and intensity, all of which have been achieved in a fairly restrained style. This is a fabulous effort from Einaudi."

"Cherry, red berries, menthol and a whiff of marzipan on the nose and palate. Firm, harmonious acidity gives this wine lovely vinosity and elegance, with an enticing minerality adding complexity. This is riper and sweeter than the 2005-more glyceral-but has excellent energy. In fact, it's still a bit youthfully compressed. Carlo Revello noted that the estate increased the quality of its crus by declassifying a good bit of fruit in '06, but that this move was done "due to the market." This is the only Barolo here that's made in larger barrels."

"Offers Christmas pudding, currant and other dried fruit. Full-bodied, with amazing concentration of ripe fruit and chewy tannins. Yet it's all in balance. Monumental."

"Shows ripe strawberry, raspberry and plum pudding. Full-bodied, with loads of ripe, juicy fruit. Chewy and tannic, yet polished. Big and powerful."

"The 2006 Barolo Cascina Francia is a deep, muscular wine endowed with superb richness, inner perfume and structure. From cask this has always been an intense, inward Barolo and now that it is in bottle, those qualities seem even more prominent. Over time, the classic Cascina Francia bouquet of roses, tar, herbs and licorice comes forward, but only reluctantly. A massive wall of tannins prevents the fruit from emerging, but every now and then the wine shows hints of its ultimate potential."

"The 2008 Barolo Cannubi bursts from the glass with freshly cut flowers, black cherries, menthol and spices. It is a cool, reserved wine with plenty of Cannubi character. The 2008 is very young, but striking. The delineation, textural elegance and complexity are all first-rate."

"The 2004 Sori San Lorenzo is a drop-dead gorgeous wine. It presents awesome balance, especially in the way it marries power with elegance. This is a remarkably refined and understated Sori San Lorenzo, with never-ending layers of dark raspberries, licorice, grilled herbs and tar that flow from its sumptuous frame. A dark, brooding beauty, it will require several additional years of bottle at a minimum, but those with the patience to wait will be amply rewarded."

"Even in the super-hot 2003 vintage, Gaja’s Sori Tildin displays its pedigree, with its dark ruby color, finely nuanced, detailed aromatics and layers of ripe red fruit that gradually reveal themselves as this exquisite wine sits in the glass. Offering extraordinary depth of expression as well length on the palate along with great overall balance, it is another remarkable wine from Angelo Gaja. As is usually the case, I also find it to be the most classic of the single-vineyard wines."

"The 2007 Barolo Ciabot Mentin is one of the greatest wines I have ever tasted at this address. Deep, sensual layers of fruit flow from the glass as this full-throttle, intense Barolo reveals its profound, breathtaking personality. The 2007 shows tons of Ginestra nuance, but with extra dimensions to the fruit that literally covers every nook and cranny of the palate. Tasting this next to the 2006 is quite a comparison, as both wines are fabulous. Readers who can should be sure to own bottles of both. A side-by-side comparison is sure to be fascinating as the wines develop over the coming years. Astute readers will note the slight name change here, which is the result of new regulations that require the use of the historic vineyard name, in this case Ginestra, or a proprietary name. Call me nostalgic, but it is sad to see one of the iconic labels in Barolo disappear."

"Intense aromas of ripe fruit, sandalwood and perfume. Full-bodied, with lovely ripe fruit flavors and velvety tannins. Long, sweet fruit finish. Soft, layered and gorgeous. Exciting in a reserved way."