2 | Wine | 2003

"The 2003 is a big, powerful Champagne that will require quite a bit of time to shed some of its baby fat. The trademark textural finesse is there, though. I expect the 2003 to be a highly divisive Champagne because of its extreme personality, but then again, many of the world’s legendary wines were made from vintages considered freakish at the time. The 2003 is an atypically, rich, powerful, vinous Dom Perignon loaded with fruit, structure and personality. It is not for the timid, but rather it is a wine for those who can be patient. No one has a crystal ball, but personally I will not be surprised if in 20 years’ time the 2003 is considered an iconic Champagne."

"This is a stunning, pure, classic Pontet-Canet. Deep purple to the rim with a glorious nose of scorched earth, black currant jam, smoke, licorice, and roasted meats, it is full-bodied, incredibly powerful, dense, with low acidity but high tannin, broad-shouldered, and savory." -Robert Parker

"Violets, roses, spices, and candied dark fruits. ...emanate from the glass of the murky black/purple colored 2003 Graham Vintage Port. After four days of air, this wine’s aromatics sweetened further, displaying jammy blackberry and blueberry scents. Bold, full-bodied, and expansive, the Graham benefited the most from extensive contact with air of all the 2003s tasted for this report. This opulently jammy wine assaults the palate with powerful yet soft layers of oily, candied red fruits as well as notes of tar and hints of mocha. A highly concentrated effort, it is creamy textured, suave, and reveals an admirably long finish filled with additional layers of dark fruits intermingled with spices."

"The nose is intense and floral with hints of red fruit and oak not yet completely absorbed. The mouth is flavorful with immediate tannins that envelop and saturate the taste buds. This long, persistent wine has returning sensations of fruit and a note of fresh acidity that guarantees its longevity."

"The 2003 Fonseca Vintage Port exhibits a nose of profound depth. Its sweet black mass of dark fruit and spice aromas leads to a character of immense depth, richness, and weight. Full-bodied, viscous, and almost impenetrable, this dense, backward port is powerful and exceptionally long in the finish. Possibly the most masculine Fonseca I’ve ever encountered, it coats the taster’s palate with licorice, jammy black fruits, and notes of chocolate that last for over a minute."

"Softly-textured and seductive. ...The complex aromatics of the opaque, black-colored 2003 Dow Vintage Port display chocolate, dried oak, black cherries, blackberries, copious spices, and a myriad flowers. This fresh, backward wine offers a medium to full-bodied, deeply concentrated core of spice-laced dark fruits....it boasts abundant layers of candied Damson plums, blueberries, black cherries, molasses, and hints of chocolate before revealing its firm structure."

"Incredible nose of crushed berry, licorice, violets and lightly toasted oak. Pure crème de cassis. Full-bodied, with big, velvety tannins and a long, long finish. Solid."

"Enjoyable ripe fruit and earthy components. Full-bodied and medium sweet, with lovely ripe tannins. Finish goes on and on."

"The 2003 Vin Santo del Chianti Classico Occhio di Pernice possesses rich, baritone layers of plums, dried prunes, tobacco leaves, worn-in leather, licorice and cloves. There is a deep, inner sweetness that recalls port, along with a beautifully nuanced centeredness that shimmers across the palate. Despite the warm growing season, this is anything but a precocious wine, if anything, it needs at least a few more years in the bottle!"