1 | Wine | Tuscany, 91 to 95 | Page 4

"Subtle currant, cedar and floral aromas. ...follow through to a dense, full-bodied palate of ripe fruits and silky tannins, with a long finish. A little age will soften this just slightly. Really serious. Best after 2010."

"The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Gemini opens with knock-out aromatics that lead to expressive layers of ripe red fruit, flowers, spices, licorice and tobacco. The balance of fruit, acidity and tannin is fabulous. Freshly cut roses, spices and licorice reappear to frame the finish. This is an exceptional, totally refined Brunello from Andrea Mantengoli."

"The 2007 Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova saturates the palate with masses of super-ripe dark fruit, tar, licorice and new leather. The Tenuta Nuova is an especially full-bodied, seamless Sangiovese deeply influenced by the Mediterranean climate of this warm site in the south of Montalcino. Layers of fruit build to an effortless, resonant finish laced with considerable aromatic nuance. This is another terrific showing from Giacomo Neri and his talented team."

"Offers a stunning aromatic display of jammy black fruits, balsam wood, dried herbs, licorice, and a Provencal/garrigue smell. Some peppery notes even came through. Full-bodied, concentrated, and fat, with high glycerin levels, a chewy, plush, succulent personality, sweet tannin, gobs of fruit, and a long, heady finish." Reviewed by Robert Parker.

"This fresh, focused red exudes black currant and black cherry flavors, with touches of licorice, tobacco and spice. Beautifully balanced, leading to a long, licorice-tinged aftertaste."

"The 2008 Chianti Classico Riserva is gorgeous, especially for a vintage that was not easy. Black cherries, mint, licorice and tobacco are supported by firm yet well-integrated tannins and lively acidity, both of which should allow the wine to age gracefully for a number of years. The 2008 could still use another year or two to soften, but it is gorgeous, even today."

"The 2009 Chianti Classico Riserva is stunningly beautiful. It boasts a great core of dark red fruit, licorice, spices, new leather and herbs. The 2009 impresses for its mid-palate density and sheer power. This is a great showing. The 2009 can be enjoyed today, but it is rather muscular, and is probably best suited for aging a few years. This is a terrific showing. A recent bottle of the 1995 was stunning in its beauty."

"The 2010 Le Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia shows off tons of concentration and sheer depth. Mocha, espresso, dark cherries and plums are some of the many notes that take shape in the glass. The 2010 is a decidedly powerful, virile wine endowed with considerable power. It will be interesting to see how the layers of flavor flesh out once the wine has been bottled. For now, the 2010 is a highly promising Serre Nuove."

"The 2009 Bolgheri Superiore Guado al Tasso impresses for its richness and sheer power. Mocha, sweet spices, plums, blackberries and herbs wrap around the palate as this intense wine shows off its pedigree. Layers of flavor build to the deep, intensely satisfying finish. The 2009 is complete and harmonious from the very first taste."

"Pure, superripe aromas of red cherry, violet, iodine and nutmeg. Superrich, highly concentrated and seamless, with densely packed flavors of raspberry, dark plum and marzipan. Finishes creamy-rich and explosively long, with a pretty violet note. This was so good I really had trouble letting the glass go. It's also the only time I can remember Fontalloro outclassing Rancia (of which I am a huge fan) by such a wide margin, something I had noticed even when tasting barrel samples of these two wines in the estate's cellar two years ago. I'd wait a good five years on this one, then enjoy it for another two decades. Proof positive that sangiovese is one of the world's great grape varieties."