1 | Wine | Page 366

"Tiny berry- and desiccated concentration rather than botrytis characterize even the 2009 Vouvray Moelleux Clos du Bourg Moelleux 1er Trie. This evinces an as yet unresolved tension between fresh citrus, chalk, and alkali on the one hand, and honey, caramel, and nut paste on the other. For all of its ripeness, there is a sense of textural firmness underlying the palate impression here. Marzipan, singed vanilla cookies, and suggestions of both peach and strawberry preserves enhance the wine’s confectionary aura, and despite its manifestly good strong acidity by vintage standards, the nearly 100 grams of residual sugar present here certainly result in a dominating youthful sweetness in its formidably long finish. If you want this to balance on its own (i.e. not in a dessert wine capacity) then I would be prepared to wait more than a decade, and the wine no doubt has at least three in it. Pinguet says this reminds him of the 1989 1er trie bottlings at the same stage."

"This fruity, intense, deeply flavoured red displays bags of ripe cherry and raspberry fruit flavours interwined with violets and liquorice. This unoaked style preserves the pure fruit of the region."

"Dark garnet/plum/purple, with loads of spice, earth, underbrush, red and black currants, licorice, and even a hint of Provencal garrigue, this full-bodied, tannic, masculine style of St.-Julien needs 5-6 years of cellaring, but is full, beefy, rich and impressively endowed. There are plenty of firm tannins in the background of this blockbuster wine, which has been built for the long haul. This is one 2010 where patience will be required." -Robert Parker

"Beautiful purple color, soft texture, with fresh berry, cherry, and floral aromas."

"Pale, green-tinged straw. Racy lemon and quince aromas, along with floral and mineral nuances. Vibrant citrus fruit flavors are braced by a note of tangy acidity and show a spicy quality on the back half. Clean and precise, finishing with tangy citrus pith and succulent herb qualities."

"Crisp and lively, with aromas of green apple, cinnamon and vanilla that lead to appealing flavors of tropical fruit and spicy anise."