1 | Wine | Sweet, Italy, 91 to 95

"The 2003 Vin Santo del Chianti Classico Occhio di Pernice possesses rich, baritone layers of plums, dried prunes, tobacco leaves, worn-in leather, licorice and cloves. There is a deep, inner sweetness that recalls port, along with a beautifully nuanced centeredness that shimmers across the palate. Despite the warm growing season, this is anything but a precocious wine, if anything, it needs at least a few more years in the bottle!"

"Knockout nose presents a smorgasbord of ripe peach, dried apricot, vanilla, marzipan, white chocolate and dried herb aromas. Then surprisingly light and linear given the opulent aromas, with noteworthy precision to the ripe peach, citrus, herb and white chocolate flavors. Finishes very smooth and long but with an obvious alcoholic warmth. Though I'm not sure this is as successful as the great Vin Santos made here in '97 or '98, this is still excellent, and its nose alone merits 95 points."

"The 2004 Vin Santo del Chianti Classico Occhio di Pernice emerges from the glass with an intriguing array of smoke, licorice, honey, scorched earth and tar, all of which add considerable complexity to the fruit. This is an exotic, full-throttle style of Vin Santo, but there is more than enough freshness to balance some of the wine’s more opulent leanings. From time to time the volatile acidity (always present in sweet wines) sticks out a bit, which is the only thing that keeps the score from going higher."

"Bright yellow-gold. Perfumed aromas of dried apricot, fresh papaya, hazelnut and sweet almond. Sweet and moderately rich, with lively acidity lifting the peach nectar, sultana and dried fig flavors. Finishes precise and long. One of the better Vin Santos in recent memory from Castellare, this nicely balanced wine spent five years in small oak barrels."