1 | Wine | Rioja, 91 to 95, 2009

"It has a well-defined strawberry, Morello and shortcake-scented bouquet infused with fennel and licorice. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, expressive red berry fruit tinged with burnt toast and white pepper, and an elegant, caressing finish that speaks of its place. This is a very commendable Rioja."

"Its name is derived from the ancient caves under San Vicente de la Sonsierra castle where the old cellar is located. It has a seductive bouquet with beautifully defined, precise, graphite-tinged black and blueberry fruit that unfolds with passing moments. The palate has immense purity and sense of symmetry and gently grips the mouth on the long, elegant finish. If you cannot afford Contador, well, this sure as hell comes close!"

"It has a well-defined, elegant bouquet of blackberry, sage and orange zest, the latter really coming forth with aeration. The palate is well-defined with supple tannins and layers of refined red fruit that caress the mouth and lend it a smooth, velvety finish that is impossible to resist."

"The palate is full-bodied with a silky smooth texture, the oak singing from the same hymn sheet as the precocious fruit that is underpinned by super-fine tannins. It offers weightless intensity. The Pagos Viejos has fine symmetry and poise towards the finish with a just a faint tang of Seville orange marmalade on the aftertaste. Everything is in place - just add time."

"The nose is very lifted with floral notes: crushed violets and rose petals sprinkled over cassis and dark plum fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and a gentle, insistent grip. It has a satin-like texture, bewitching harmony and a precise, languorous finish that exhibits spine-tingling minerality. Returning to the bottle hours after opening, it evolves ever-higher degrees of harmony and sumptuousness. It almost leaves you giggling stupidly at how good it is. It is expensive, but it is also cheaper than a First Growth."

"It has a very sensual bouquet with dark cherries, creme de cassis and creamy new oak smeared on top - without compromising delineation. The palate is full-bodied and is certainly the most voluminous of the three single vineyard wines, with perhaps the best balance and freshness, seeming to handle that oak with style. The finish is beautifully poised with life-affirming freshness. Primal but persuasive, this should turn out to be a fantastic Rioja."

"The 2009 has a fresh, floral, Margaux-like bouquet with fine delineation and intensity. The palate is full-bodied with an almost impenetrable carapace of licorice-tinged black fruits, minerals, citrus peel and a powerful, sensual finish. Perhaps impressive more than pleasurable (at the moment), this behemoth will need a decade in the cellar before it will shine."

"A rich, opulent bouquet with kirsch, maraschino, shoe polish and licorice. The palate is silky smooth on the entry with saturated, corpulent tannins that caress the mouth. At its heart are layers of sumptuous ripe red cherry, fresh strawberry and vanillary new oak towards the rambunctious finish."

"It has a precise nose with faint traces of lime zest, freshly sliced grapefruit and white peach. The palate is well-balanced with crisp acidity, great tension, and honeysuckle, almond and shaved ginger on the very refined finish. This is outstanding, but alas only around 6,000 bottles are produced."