1 | Wine | Piedmont Misc, $20 to $50, 86 or higher

"An overachiever in this vintage. Crushed flowers, pine, resin, menthol and herbs add layers of complexity to the racy, super-ripe red fruits. Despite its generosity, this remains an understated, representative Gattinara with lovely balance and harmony."

"Offers pretty blackberry and floral aromas, with cigar tobacco hints. Full-bodied, with ultrafine tannins and silky, balanced fruit."

"The 2006 Gattinara Castelle flows with the essence of dark fruit, smoke, tar and scorched earth. This is a decidedly powerful, intense Gattinara endowed with gorgeous intensity in its fruit and fabulous overall balance. Floral notes are woven gracefully into the juicy, generous finish. The Castelle has more than enough structure to develop nicely for a number of years."

"Rich and juicy, this is packed with black cherry, black currant and hints of chocolate and spice flavors. In a modern style, with dense tannins. Shows fine harmony and length."

"The 2008 Barbera d’Alba Cascina Francia is a classic Conterno Barbera. Layers of dark, brooding fruit come forth gradually, along with exotic scents of new leather, licorice, tar and soy that add complexity. This is a decidedly reserved, mineral-driven Barbera that will appeal most to readers who appreciate the focused side of Barbera as opposed to more opulent vintages such as 2007 where the fruit is decidedly forward. The Cascina Francia shows greater richness and density than the Ceretta, suggesting the direction that wine is likely to take in coming years."

"Very pure, offering black cherry and wild berry notes augmented by balsamic and earth accents. Intense, with fine grip and a lingering aftertaste of menthol and tobacco."

"The 2010 Barbera d’Alba Trevigne is another attractive, juicy wine bursting with sweet red fruit, flowers, cloves and new leather. It boasts gorgeous intensity and terrific overall balance to match its classy, elegant personality."

"Roberto Voerzio’s 2007 Langhe Nebbiolo is insanely beautiful. This explosive, textured Nebbiolo bursts from the glass with endless layers of rich, textured fruit that lead to a racy, juicy finish. This shows spectacular balance and tons of harmony. Most producers would be thrilled to have this as their top Barolo but at Voerzio it is the entry-level wine. Readers who want to get a sense of what is in store with Voerzio’s 2007 Barolos should start here."

"Massolino’s 2011 Barbera d’Alba is another attractive entry-level offering. Sweet red berries, flowers and spicebox all take shape in the glass. Ideally, the 2011 is best enjoyed over the next few years, while the fruit retains its fresh, vinous personality."