1 | Wine | Barossa, $20 to $50, 86 or higher

"Blended of Grenache, Shiraz and Mataro, the 2008 The Steading gives a deep garnet color and aromas of warm mulberries and dried plums with an undercurrent of spice box, sandalwood and kirsch. Very full and generous in the mouth with a good amount of enlivening acidity, it is displaying mature, dried berry and spice flavors textured with a medium level of velvety tannins and finishing long. Drinking now, it should remain good to 2016+."

"Inky ruby. Powerful spice-accented aromas of dark fruit preserves, cola and candied violet, with a subtle vanilla nuance in the background. Potent, palate-coating blackberry and mulberry flavors are enlivened by juicy acidity and pick up an exotic peach pit nuance with air. Finishes smooth and sweet, with lingering licorice and floral notes."

"Very deep garnet colored with a touch of brick, the 2008 Basket Pressed Shiraz offers a complex nose of mulberries, blackberry preserves and dried plums over hints of baking spices, Ceylon tea, tobacco and sandalwood. Very full bodied, big and powerful in the mouth, it offers generous layers of warm berry, dried fruit and baking spice layers supported by refreshing acidity and a medium to firm level of rounded tannins. The finish is long, spicy and just a little warm."

"Pungent bouquet evokes cherry compote, cassis, pipe tobacco and rose, with notes of vanilla and mocha gaining strength with air. Deeply pitched dark fruit flavors show impressive vivacity and pick up oak spice and herb character on the back half. Dusty tannins add shape to the long, spicy, appealingly sweet finish. Drinks easily now but this has the depth and balance to reward patience."

"Bright purple. Intense dark berry and cherry pit aromas are complemented by notes of vanilla, violet and cracked pepper. Juicy and focused, offering spicy blackberry and bitter cherry flavors and a suggestion of candied flowers. Dusty tannins add shape and grip to the long, spicy and gently sweet finish. Definitely give this wine a little air time."

"Full ruby. Dark berries, cherry pit, cola and spicecake on the pungent nose. Sappy, penetrating and broad, offering boysenberry and cherry compote flavors and a touch of allspice. Closes on a spicy note, with lingering dark fruit qualities and a touch of lavender. Exotic and singular wine that would work well with strongly seasoned red meats or funky cheeses."

"Only made in select years (2007 and 2003 thus far), Ode to Lorraine is a wine made in homage to Al and Cameron’s mum, who remains the “uberboss” of the operation. A blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Shiraz and 8% Merlot, the 2008 Ode to Lorraine spent 18 months in new and seasoned French and American hogsheads. Deep garnet-purple colored, it gives intense blueberry, black currant and spice box aromas with hints of prunes, licorice and some earth. Rich and full-bodied with medium to firm grainy tannins and plenty of enlivening acid, it finishes long with layers of mulberry and spice flavors. Approachable now, it should soften more in a year or so and drink best from 2012 to 2020+."

"Bold, focused and juicy with ripe cherry and mulberry fruit, shaded with hints of smoke and dill. The finish lingers with detail."

"Lithe, supple and appealing for its wet earth and mineral overtones to the red berry flavors, lingering nicely against a mild grip of savory tannins."