1 | Wine | Sangiovese, 86 or higher, 1.5 L

"An elegant wine laced with dark cherries, plums, licorice, new leather, mint and French oak. All of the elements come together beautifully in this silky, mid-weight Brunello. The vibrant, eternal finish makes it hard to resist a second taste. This subtle, impeccably refined Brunello can be enjoyed with minimum cellaring, but it will be even better in another few years."

"Subtle currant, cedar and floral aromas. ...follow through to a dense, full-bodied palate of ripe fruits and silky tannins, with a long finish. A little age will soften this just slightly. Really serious. Best after 2010."

"Pure, superripe aromas of red cherry, violet, iodine and nutmeg. Superrich, highly concentrated and seamless, with densely packed flavors of raspberry, dark plum and marzipan. Finishes creamy-rich and explosively long, with a pretty violet note. This was so good I really had trouble letting the glass go. It's also the only time I can remember Fontalloro outclassing Rancia (of which I am a huge fan) by such a wide margin, something I had noticed even when tasting barrel samples of these two wines in the estate's cellar two years ago. I'd wait a good five years on this one, then enjoy it for another two decades. Proof positive that sangiovese is one of the world's great grape varieties."

"The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino is a serious, intense Brunello. Wild cherries, herbs, tobacco, spices and worn-in leather are some of the aromas and flavors that flow from this wiry, structured wine. This shows plenty of length on the palate, although the tannins dry out a touch on the finish."

"Shows bright berry, earth, mushroom and leather on the nose. Full-bodied, with very ripe, almost raisiny fruit. Tight and lean now, but the rich fruit comes through on the finish."

"I prefer the 2001 Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale Oro with the gold label, however, very elegant in its aromas and flavors of cranberries and raspberries, tobacco, and violets, vigorous and sustained on the mid-palate and finish and with tasty, textured tannins on the close."

"Lively and fruity, with dried berry, black cherry and spices on the nose and palate. Medium-bodied, with a solid core of fruit and a long finish."

"This red starts out ripe and accessible, boasting plum, cherry and chocolate flavors, then turns firm and tight on the finish, where tobacco and mineral notes take over. I like the potential of this when it integrates more fully."