1 | Wine | Tempranillo, $20 to $50, 2009

"Glass-staining ruby. Sexy, oak-spiced aromas of dark berry compote, cola and violet, with subtle vanilla and underbrush nuances. Broad and sweet on the palate, offering ripe blackberry and cherry-vanilla flavors and slow-mounting smokiness. The floral note comes back on the finish, which clings with impressive tenacity and focus. Shows good energy for a ripe vintage."

"Deep ruby. Aromas and flavors of cherry compote, vanilla, mocha and tar, with smoke and floral overtones. Lush and open-knit, finishing with punch and pliant tannins. This wine is approachable now, with a little air."

"Opaque purple. A heady, complex bouquet evokes blackberry and blackcurrant liqueur, with suave oak spice and potpourri elements. Sweet, broad and pliant, the intense dark fruit flavors showing great power, richness and depth. Very young but flat-out seductive, finishing on a sweet, sappy note of candied dark fruits, with lush, harmonious tannins. I also had the chance to revisit this bodega's ultra-premium Malleolus de Sanchomartin and Malleolus de Valderramiro from the 2008 vintage (reviewed last year), and while both wines are years from maturity they show strikingly flamboyant character and make a serious impression right now. I suppose I'd feel some guilt pangs if I opened either of them now, but it would be guilt I could deal with after asking for mercy from the wine gods."