1 | Wine | Nebbiolo, $20 to $50, 2006

"An overachiever in this vintage. Crushed flowers, pine, resin, menthol and herbs add layers of complexity to the racy, super-ripe red fruits. Despite its generosity, this remains an understated, representative Gattinara with lovely balance and harmony."

"The 2006 Gattinara Castelle flows with the essence of dark fruit, smoke, tar and scorched earth. This is a decidedly powerful, intense Gattinara endowed with gorgeous intensity in its fruit and fabulous overall balance. Floral notes are woven gracefully into the juicy, generous finish. The Castelle has more than enough structure to develop nicely for a number of years."

"The 2006 Barbaresco Sori’ Paitin flows onto the palate in a masculine expression of dried cherries, autumn leaves, tobacco, roasted coffee beans, licorice and leather. The wine possesses notable concentration and depth, but the aromas are slightly forward. The former suggests the wine will age gracefully on its fruit, the latter that it will develop rather quickly. My best guess is that the Barbaresco will drink well for a number of years even if it won’t necessarily improve. Readers who enjoy the firm style of Barbaresco typical of this part of Neive will find much to admire here."