1 | Wine | Mosel-saar-ruwer, $20 to $50, 2010

"Fresh kiwi and lime scent and lusciously coat the palate. ...from Christoffel’s 2010 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett, wreathed with Treppchen-like high tones of herbal extracts. Polished in feel and somehow at once soothing and refreshingly stimulating, this finishes with vivid juiciness of fruit; positive tartness serving for focus; and a distinct note of stone. While it might be marginally less winsome than the corresponding Erdener, I wouldn’t be surprised to see this remain fresh and interesting longer, probably for at least 12-15 years. By now at this address, it’s become commonplace to have Kabinetts that are really Auslesen when measured even by the standards that prevailed here in the mid-nineties – let alone a quarter century ago when I first met Christoffel. But here I must say that despite the analysis this displays real Kabinett-like levity and vivacity."

"Scents of lime, kiwi, basil, juniper, and chervil. ...and the corresponding display on a bright and relatively firm palate is piquant and zesty. This finishes with nice integration of its slightly bitter elements; impeccably-balanced sweetness; and admirable sheer persistence."

"Rich and juicy, with lively acidity to focus its apricot, nectarine, apple and salty lime essence. Terrific balance and harmony, followed by a long finish, makes for a winning combination."

"Kesselstatt’s 2010 Scharzhofberger Riesling Spatlese introduces a musky, honeyed overlay both on the nose and on a glycerin-rich palate, signifying the noble appearance of boytrytis on the stage. Invigoratingly pungent smoky and saliva-inducingly saline elements add further compelling intrigue and sensual appeal to a matrix of nearly overripe peach and herbal essences. There is elegance and lift here as well as a marriage of textural creaminess with vivacity that really display the grower’s and vinifier’s art as well as the uniqueness of a great site and of a style of wine unapproachable anywhere else on earth. Moderate residual sugar reinforces the fruit and moderates any tendency the botrytis might have had toward bitterness but a the same time stays in the background so that while this beauty will no doubt keep well for a quarter century, it is not one of those “sweet” Mosel Rieslings that needs years in bottle to prove versatile at table."

"Tight, with layers of mineral and slate that are closely packed and accented by notes of ripe peach, white cherry and Golden Delicious apple. Very spicy on the finish."

"Very pure-tasting, with an intense raciness to the peach, apple and green pear flavors. The creamy finish is long and fruity."