1 | Wine | Germany, $50 to $100, 86 or higher

"Pungent lavender, mint, sage, sea breeze, and crushed stone mingle with ripe pear in the nose of Bassermann’s 2009 Forster Pechstein Riesling Grosses Gewachs, whose shimmeringly interactive complexity on a firm, juicy palate ranges from fresh lemon through the aforementioned floral, herbal, and northerly orchard fruits to deep nut oil richness and coffee. This should be fascinating to follow for at least the coming decade, and while there is still something a touch austere about the overall impression conveyed, one has here also a fine example of elegance, vivacity, and clarity such as are possible in Grosses Gewachs format."