1 | Wine | Chardonnay, $50 to $100, 2009

"Peach, flowers and hazelnut on classic Puligny nose. Then sweet and fruity in the mouth, with very ripe stone fruit flavors complicated by hints of honey and menthol. The dusty, slightly aggressive finish displays excellent density and an intriguing flinty character. Boasts impressive volume for village wine." Reviewed by Stephen Tanzer.

"The 2009 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard impresses for its focus and nuance. Layers of chiseled, beautifully delineated fruit emerge from this sculpted Chardonnay. The Hudson is about subtlety first and foremost. Ripe apricots, freshly cut flowers, pastry, lemon, crushed rocks and French oak inform the pure, creamy finish."

"Bright gold. Intensely perfumed aromas of orange pith, pear and anise, with slow-building spiciness and a touch of salty minerality. Vibrant, finely etched citrus and orchard fruit flavors expand and deepen with air, picking up a sexy florality. The brisk finish features a strong jolt of melon and a touch of iodine."

"The 2009 Bourgogne comes across as soft, delicate and pleasing. This is one of the more understated 2009 Bourgognes I tasted. It possesses lovely acidity and refined balance, with a hushed expression of fruit that is quite attractive at this level."

"The 2009 Chablis Grenouilles comes across as quite shy and inward, also because of its recent bottling. White fruit, flowers, mint and citrus are some of the notes that take shape in this beautifully delineated wine. The Grenouille exudes great balance of vineyard and vintage characteristics, much more so than the 2010 at this stage. The glycerin-rich finish shows the richness of the vintage."

"High-pitched aromas of lemon, vineyard peach and flowers. Tactile and wild, with a very dense, extract-rich palate impression cut by penetrating lemony acidity. This boasts terrific flavor intensity and verve for 2009. The very long, saline finish saturates the palate with lemon and crushed stone. White Burgundy from red wine soil."

"Rather shut down on the nose, hinting at orange peel, nutmeg and minerals. Denser and more savory than the "regular" Clos, but at the same time silkier (the vines here are older). A stronger oak element contributes to the impression of breadth and dryness. More bracing on the long finish than the thick palate suggests, with a piquant note of pineapple. I'd give this very rich and saline wine a few years to absorb some of its oak." Reviewed by Stephen Tanzer.

"The 2009 Chablis Valmur emerges from the glass with tiny bursts of energy and vibrancy. This is a minimalist, understated wine graced with tremendous classiness from start to finish. It is also quite cool and reserved for the vintage. All in all, this is another winner from Moreau."

"Rich and creamy, this white evokes apple pie, with touches of grapefruit and freshly baked pastry flavors. It's broad, and finishes with spice accents."