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2012 Edition
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Scotch, Bourbon,
& Specialty Spirits

Shots in the Dark

Shots in the Dark: Our Spirits Experts Eat Humble Pie

 

   I'm the lucky one here. All I have to do is round up the spirits, funnel them into generic bottles, photograph the bottles, head down to the South Loop Binny's, get Brett Pontoni and Pat Brophy to focus long enough to taste four spirits. I'll need to take careful notes, then edit the whole thing down to a compelling narrative that stays true to the conversation.

   But they have to get through a blind tasting. I do not envy them.

 

Four Samples

 

Sample A

 

   Pat runs through all four first. He talks as he tastes. "Not much on the nose. Spirited. A little thin up front but it finishes long. Sweet and peppery. You brought me bourbon, and I'm struggling to figure out which. Could be Blanton's. It's too sweet though. Not enough vanilla or dry enough to be Elijah Craig. It could have been aged in smaller barrels and could be from a micro distillery. Something like a Hudson. This is wild."

   I ask him for a thumbs up or thumbs down. He takes his time, sums up his descriptors.

   "Corn puddin' nose, balanced by some brown sugar and maple. Medium body, nice finish, long. Thumbs up, whatever this is."

 

   Brett's next, and Pat sits in while he tastes. He sniffs all four samples, guessing this sample as bourbon or Canadian. He works his way back around.

   "Fairly lean. Decent enough I suppose. Tastes young. Not much finish. Not real developed, not a ton of wood on it. That could also be a sign of a Canadian that had too much G.N.S. and crap added to it."

   "G.N.S.?" I ask.

   "Grain Neutral Spirits," Brett explains. "With Canadian whiskey, a lot of the final blend can be G.N.S.

 

   I try not to raise my eyebrows or offer any clues. Next time I'll do this double blind. They're offering all the descriptors I would for this whiskey. I'm fighting the urge not to tell them to listen to themselves and what they're describing.

 

   Click to read the rest of Shots in the Dark and discover what Brett and Pat were tasting.

 

Whiskey Whispers

Brophstradamus and His Predictions for the 2012 Spirit World

 

The Great Brophstradamus

Blackness will roll across the land. Watch for more "limited" releases from industry giants that continue the black theme. Smirnoff Black, Crown Royal Blacker, Jameson Blackerer, Captain Morblack, Black Daniel's Blackest Label, and so on.

 

The proud will wear their pride. The price of Brora and Port Ellen bottlings will climb ever higher.

 

The nectar of the land of Scots will reach these shores in a new vessel. Yes, I'm talking about Scotch in a can here.

 

The infant of Islay will grow into a prodigy. Watch for one or two interesting new releases from Islay's newest, Kilchoman.

 

The world has seen the rising of the flavored vodka. But the world is still unprepared for the next onslought, a realm held much more sacred. The flavored whiskies are coming.

 

Cocktails will get "skinnier." This is an illusion that comes at a price: you will drink more of them to catch the same buzz.

 

Follow those with the gift. Binny's will continue to hand pick those casks offering the greatest value and highest quality for your pleasure.

 

A new dawn is on the horizon. Expect a slew of new US craft distilleries to enter the market, each bringing innovative new spirits, and also a tidal wave of white whiskies.

 

World of Whiskies

 

Save the date for the

BIGGEST spirits event of the Year!

Binny's World of Whiskies

Thursday, March 22nd 5-8p

at Binny's Lincoln Park

More details and distiller list to follow.

 

Breaking News

New From Inver House

   Balblair is still a fresh face in the single malt scene. Until recently you could only taste the Highland distiller's malts in an Inver House blend or the occasional independent bottling. About a year ago Balblair introduced a slew of quality vintage bottlings, older vintages plucked from their warehouses. Now we're seeing a new wave of releases, including a 1989 and 2000 bottling, with the nonchillfiltered 2001 coming sometime soon. Kudos to Balblair for stepping up their game.
   Caorunn Small Batch Gin - it says "ka-roon" on the label, so that makes that easier. It's our new favorite. With five botanicals including rowan berry, heather, bog myrtle, dandelion, and coul blush apple (yep), it brings a new profile to a juniper-heavy category. Caorunn comes from Balmenach, Inver House's largest distillery.

 

Crown Thy Good with Brotherhood, also Gin

   Two new gins from still to shining distillery:
   From Philly: Bluecoat American Dry Gin. This gets its dry, clean freshness from organic juniper berries, citrus peels, and other organic botanicals before distillation in a traditional copper still. Bluecoat isn't new to the world, but is new to Binny's.
   From Frisco San Francisco: Distillery No. 209 Gin. 209 is all citrus and spice, not evergreen. Its midwestern corn spirit is distilled four times before the maceration of botanicals, then distilled once more. Distillery 209 uses copper alembic pot stills modeled on Glenmorangie's and built by Forsyth's. In true San Francisco style, the distillery sits on a pier and uses bay water to maintain temperature. They put a lot of thought into this gin, and it shows.

 

Wheat Vodka from Chopin

   Chopin is known for being from Poland and being from potatoes. A while back they released a vodka from rye that isn't too bad and is selling well. They're back with a new wheat vodka.
   We're not vodka cheerleaders, but we have to applaud an established brand for extending their line with expressions of vodka that can be taken seriously. Lately the biggest question in this industry is what kind of candy will adorn the next vodka bottle.

 

John L SullivanThe Ten Count

   Whiskey involves plenty of blood, sweat and tears, and nobody knew blood, sweat and tears like John L Sullivan; sporting man, pugilist, last ever bare-knuckled heavyweight champion of the world. Also the first gloved champion. His final bare-knuckle match went seventy-five rounds.

   That makes for one heavyweight namesake. When we tasted The Ten Count, the new ten year-old Irish to carry John L Sullivan's name, the gloves came off. Does The Ten Count stand a fighting chance? It doesn't hit hard, no body blows. This is a lightweight contender. The light, sweet nose feints delicate before the palate's hook: buttery texture, spirited and bright. Here's the punchline: In a first for The Whiskey Hotline, having a few rounds took on a whole new meaning. The Ten Count might leave you on the ropes.

 

The Prodigal Scotch

   Remember the long-lost Binny's Hand Picked Duncan Taylor Laphroaig 13 year old? It disappeared way back, well over a year ago. It finally arrived. We have it in our hands. This thing should be a legend before it even hits your lips. Get some soon because there are less than fifty cases of six.

 

More From Our Favorite Hebrideans

   Have we made it obvious that we love Bruichladdich? They are the only Islay producer left distilling, aging and bottling everything right there on the island. And they're getting better. They've made it this far on releases of older stock and innovative young malts.

   So it's great that they finally have a ten year bottling to start a core line, The Laddie Ten. This is a flagship bottling that will come to more clearly define Bruichladdich. We're stocking up on this inaugural release.

    "An Turas Mor" translates to "The Great Journey." It's quite a statement when that's the name of the new Port Charlotte multivintage. An Turas Mor is another slated for ongoing release. We've heard rumors of something special in this first vatting.

   Stepping outside of their usual whisky realm, Bruichladdich are offering up The Botanist Gin, the only gin from Islay. With more than thirty botanicals, with the majority native to Islay and not typical to gin, The Botanist is distinctive and complex with a unique, floral character.

 

What's Rollin' In?

 

Samogon Spirit Part of the appeal of Samogon Traditional Russian Spirit is in its mystery. Distilled from grape juice and pomace, you want to call it a vodka or maybe a grappa (pisco?). It's mixable, but brings tons more flavor than mere vodka.

 

Triple Wood is the newest from Laphroaig. Essentially their Quarter Cask with a sherry wood finish, this is another great everyday Laphroaig.

 

Isle of Jura celebrates 200 years of distilling with a new 21 year old bottling. Sherry cask finish. Super limited. If you're at all a fan of Jura, don't miss it.

 

A rum called "The Lash" may already come with a loaded meaning, but get your mind out of the gutter. The Lash Spiced Rum is the most thoughtful spiced rum we've seen. It sees four years in oak and includes whole spices right in the bottle. It can't ... ahem ... be beat.

 

Now your nail can be even rustier! Drambuie 15 was only available in Europe and in select travel retail shops until now. From a base of 15 year old Speyside, it is has more Scotch character, plus that classic Drambuie spice.

 

The 2011 Four Roses Single Barrel is an OBSQ bottling that saw 12 years of age. For comparison, the Binny's selections are just shy of 10. It drinks like OBSQ (secret decoder) with key differences: more oaky vanilla, less Four Roses signature pepper, and a classier, more dry finish.

 

From sunny Wheeling, Illinois comes Bob Chinn's World Famous Mai Tai. The man makes a killer Mai Tai. If only he could find a way to bottle those delicious crab legs.
By the way, give Fresh Island Premium Mixers a try. Add rum and a tiny umbrella, and suddenly January in Chicago feels like March in Cabo.

 

Speaking of wild times in tropical climes, check out OR~G. Mango, papaya and persimmon in French vodka make OR~G our favorite innuendo-themed liqueur.

 

For the discerning Apfel fan who wishes Flimm wasn't the only game in town: Schonauer Apfel. It's apple pie season, people. Comes in an attractive 1L bottle.

 

Spicebox Canadian Spiced Whisky was a request from you. We tasted it and knew we had to have it. Exactly what it sounds like, this whisky celebrates a time when illicit whisky would spill over the border from the north.

 

Although Ilegal Mezcal is now indeed legal, it still isn't the easiest stuff to find. This is superb mezcal, wild and smoky and kinda dirty, discovered by cocktail enthusiasts with an interesting backstory and a bizarre infatuation with rabbits.

 

Ever try Stroh 80? At 160 proof it is brutal. So we were leery of Stroh's Jagertee. Don't know German? Jager means "hunter," and tee means "tea." It's probably telling that they suggest diluting it with water before consumption. Enjoy while hunting?

 

Copa Cachaca is the first cachaca we've seen aged in wood. From Brazil, Copa offers an interesting addition of wood spice to the familiar fresh cachaca profile.

 

New from Redemption is Temptation Bourbon. Temptation and brings a corn-centric addition to their rye-heavy portfolio with more breadth and sweetness.

 

The new Woodford Reserve Master's Collection contains two 375mL bottles, both from the same 100% rye spirit. One is matured in new oak, the other sees time in a used cask. The difference between the two is stunning, and illustrates the effect of the wood on whiskey. And it shows why we require NEW casks for bourbon here in America.

 

Another 100% rye from Canada and bottled in the U.S. - Masterson's Straight Rye. The bottle says it's ten years old, but word is it's closer to 12. Awesomely complex, this should catch notice from fans of WhistlePig and Jefferson's.

 

Finally, we have a Mamajuana! Kalembu Mamajuana. If you've vacationed in the Dominican Republic, you know what this is and have probably asked us for it. If you haven't been there, Mamajuana is a blend of rum, wine, honey and spices said to have aphrodisiac qualities. We hope to someday vacation in the Dominican Republic.

From the Binny's Mailbag

   We're opening the Binny's Mailbag, giving you the chance to see the kinds of mail we get all the time. Its surprising how often these questions are super topical, or how they give us the opportunity to rant. This is one of those questions:

 

What are the best sweet, smooth single malt scotches that you recommend (top 10)? Thanks!

- B.B.

 

Hi B.B.

 

   What a loaded question! Tops 10's are hard because inevitably some great whiskies get left out. That said, here is our current top 10, in no particular order and in no particular price range. 

 

 

Glenmorangie 18 Year Old - Very light, lots of honey and ripe fruits. VERY smooth.

 

Dalmore 18 Year Old - Full bodied and incredibly heavily sherry aged. Sweet dark fruits abound with a long, clinging finish. 

 

Balvenie 21 Year Old Portwood - This one is port cask finished, and very sweet, and very smooth. 

 

Samaroli Glenburgie 21 Year Old - Fairly sweet, but has a slight, coastal-salt balance. Samaroli is an amazing independent bottler.

 

Signatory Glenlossie 18 Year Old - A hand-picked Binny's cask. Gently sweet and very light. Smooth even at cask strength. 

 

Glenrothes 1985 Vintage - Glenrothes is medium bodied and particularly creamy. A sweet butter cream is the leading flavor. 

 

BenRiach 20 Year Old - Creamy and honey with a balance of citrus fruits. Very gentle and clean. 

 

Glenmorangie Nectar d'Or - This is the light, sweet and smooth 10 year Glenmorangie that sees an additional 2 years in Sauternes casks. 'Nuff said. 

 

Cragganmore Distiller's Edition - Cragganmore is one of the real sleepers in the crowded Speyside category. Fuller bodied than most, and sweeter with less spice. This Cragganmore is finished in port casks, and is incredibly smooth with a rich, raisin-y depth in flavor. 

 

Blackadder Lochranza 11 Year Old - Don't be fooled by the island origin of this scotch (distilled at Arran). This is very sweet stuff. Light on the palate and dangerously smooth even at cask strength.  

 

   Hope this gives some guidance. Plenty to choose from! Thanks for thinking Binny's!

 

 

   Check out the Binny's Mailbag feature on the Binny's Blog. And we say it a lot on The Whiskey Hotline, but if you have a question, you know how to get in touch.

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