365 | Spirits | France Misc, $20 to $50 | Page 4

"Brilliantly clear. Complex, vibrant, yet subtle aromas of powdered sugar, star anise, dried white flowers, cream, and wheat dough are sweet and inviting. A super smooth, plush entry leads to an oily medium-to-full body of delicate anise cookie, confectioner's sugar, frosting, and marzipan flavors. Finishes with a long, graceful wet limestone, pastry dough, anise seed, almond oil, and pink peppercorn fade. A startlingly flavorful and elegant vodka that clearly pushes the limits of the unflavored vodka category. Truly world class, expertly made and unique vodka."

"The first aromatic blast is seductively anise-like, then it mellows, turning softer, more herbal, and plumper. At palate entry the intensely bitter taste of anise both enlivens and cleanses the palate; at midpalate the pleasant sting of alcohol and the zest of rooty/woodsy botanicals make for memorable imbibing. Finishes elegant and smooth." 90-95 pts.

"Pale aquamarine tint comes from the infusion of Iris root and flower. Opening nosing passes feature clove with supporting traces of cassia bark, grains of paradise and nutmeg; after several more minutes a moderately sweet and fruity bouquet develops, one that highlights orange zest, coriander and juniper berries. Palate entry is bittersweet and acceptably prickly on the tongue; by midpalate, the cocoa and bean-like taste focuses on the earthy/root/bark botanicals, especially the cassia, juniper and licorice. Finishes cleanly, bittersweet and long. One of the more bitter and intensely bean-like gins I’ve sampled." 85-89 pts.