Thanksgiving is coming...Load up on German Wines
Posted by Jon Bernardoni at 12:57 PM
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Myself and a handful of Binny's Wine Consultants attended a German wine presentation earlier in the week. The presenter was extremely knowledgeable on German wines. I took a two day class at the Culinary Institute of America and did not learn as much as I did in the 2 hour presentation we got to see.
Germany is best known for it's production of Riesling. Binny's is starting to see some Pinot Noirs come in as well. A good Riesling can age over 20 years. The combination of high acidity and some residual sugar help lengthen the aging process.
I took a Level 1 Sommelier Course in July. There were 6 or 7 Master Sommeliers teaching the course. We had a Q and A session at the end of the class. The first question asked was, “what is your favorite varietal?”
Each and every one of the Sommeliers said Riesling. I will always be a Cab guy, but our presenter poured a Riesling from 1992. It was smoky, creamy, the fruit was subdued, but still present. It didn't smell or taste like the Rieslings I was used to. It was awesome. When I got home, I scoured the Internet for older German Rieslings.
There is a stigma, I feel with Riesling. Many people ask me for a wine to pair with a complex dish, I give them a Riesling and they give me a funny look. If you do not enjoy sweeter wines, should try a Riesling with food. It is a meal enhancer. Why is Riesling so food friendly? Acidity. It cleanses refreshes your palette while you are eating.
If a customer in the store is asking a question about German Riesling, they are usually asking about the grading of sweetness.
Kabinett has to reach a certain amount of ripeness, so it can be off dry to semi dry.
Spatlese is a step above in ripeness than Kabinett. Some can be moderately sweet to sweet.
Auslese is a step above in ripeness than Spatlese. Auslese sees some “noble rot,” as well.
Below are some recommendations. Thanksgiving is coming soon and will go well with your meal.
2008 Clean Slate Riesling- One of the best whites in the $10 price range. Semi sweet, lots of pear and apple flavors, with a wet, stony finish.
2007 Schloss Vollrads Riesling Kabinett- Bright and ripe nose of ripe lychee, pear and green apple. It gets a lift from the acidity and there is a slight spritzy feeling on the palate as well.
2007 Dr. Heyden Oppenheimer Sacktrager Riesling Spatlese- Ripe apricot, peach and pear flavors in the nose. In the mouth, medium bodied, moderately sweet, but this gets a lift from its bright acidity.
2007 Becker Pinot Noir- We are starting to see some German Pinot Noirs hit the shelves. Bright cherry and white pepper in the nose. Light bodied, well balanced and fruit forward. This is a really nice value Pinot Noir.
If you are looking for a Riesling to age, we have a great collection of Joh. Jos. Prum, which is one of the best producers in Germany. Keep an eye out for them. The next time you are in, talk to a wine consultant, and we will steer you in the right direction for Thanksgiving.







